The New Wave Wall is one of the many high quality sport cliffs at Windy point. It is different however in its consistently gently overhanging nature and an abundance of super high quality 5.12 climbs. The wall faces northwest and always has shade in the mornings. All older bolts and pins have been replaced with new bolts. All the routes demand stamina and strong fingers.
Getting There
To reach New Wave Wall, park at the Windy Point Vista lot or at a pullout at mile 14.3 on the south side of the road. Head down the slope on the south side of the road toward the Hunchback (it is the tower with the kickass arete that is easily visible from the road). Before you get to the Hunchback, turn left and walk under the Wind Wall (the large wavey wall). When you near the end of the Wind Wall trend right and down the slope until you can scramble up to the base of the New Wall. It is recognizable by its gently overhanging face peppered with bolts. The approach should take 5 minutes. Alternate approaches are possible if you parked lower on the road and don't mind scrambling.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Wave Wall:
One of the best sport climbs on one of the best cliffs on Mt. Lemmon. Tsunami is the last route on the right side of the cliff before the arete. Climb elegant moves to a good rest halfway up the route. The crux involves cranking on small crimps. Gets morning shade....[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
On the route "Change In Luck" (New Wave Wall) there looks to be about 20 feet of run out from the last bolt on the overhanging face to the last bolt of "Skid Mark" below the shared chains. Is there a bolt for "Change In Luck" above the ledge that I just can't find? It looks like a big whipper if you miss the clip on the highest bolt. Maybe that is why the route name is what it is. It looks like it can be protected with gear but the guidebooks indicate it is a sport route.
Thanks Jbak. I did watch a climber on the route opt instead for down climbing to the top bolt on the overhanging face and get lowered off on a bail biner. He expressed, in colorful language, that it was unreasonably run out for a "Sport Route". Had I not seen him climb it, I would not think to carry gear either. The "Rock Climbing Arizona" guide indicates a bolt on the ledge. Once again, not all topos are accurate. --Mark
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