(by Scott Ayers) The original moderate plum of the crag, but a thought-provoking and difficult lead for its grade. Not the best choice for an aspiring 5.8 leader, if the quantities of seasonal bail-off gear are any indication. It is recommended to belay/lower from the bolted rappel station below the pine tree, as this marks the end of the quality climbing. Follow the left-leaning, left-facing corner for about 30 feet till it ends, then step back left and into the prominent right-facing corner that defines the bulk of the remaining difficulties. Pro to 3½”, 65 feet.
Location
Towards right end of the wall, just left of "Slip Service"
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Jun 20, 2008 rating: 5.9
This is a fun climb, but sustained and steep, so 5.8 leaders should proceed with caution. Pro is good for most of the way, but not great up high. The roof mentioned near the top of the route is small, but bulgy and awkward. I took a 30 foot whipper from this move, and saw another fellow fall 20 feet a week later on the same move. Careful here!
BITD, the comment that "Awkward for its grade - and I found the pro to be non-trivial as well. A newer 5.xx leader would be well tested on this route. " pretty much described all the routes on the Troll Wall.
Looking at the profusion of bolts here these days, it seems pretty clear that some of the old horror fests have become enjoyable climbs.
Geir or Scott could probably correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe bolts were added only to the belays? Not that this didn't make some of the scary climbs far less so (and I'm sure Paul has some stories), but the preceding comment kind of makes it sound like Scott added a bunch of bolts to the actual climbing part of the existing trad lines.
Then a bunch of entirely new lines went up as sport or mixed routes.
I didn't mean to imply that old trad routes were being retro'd. Or that the wall was a grid fest.
I meant that I imagined there were now some steep routes on hard rock that protected well without having to fiddle all day with odd ball gear.
FWIW - various sources have assured me that none of the routes in Steiger's guide have had any bolts added.
That said, my recollection of the troll is that there were a number of lines that wandered and crossed and were never written up or properly described. So it's possible there are now bolts to clip where once it was spicy gear. And personally, if that's the case, hallelujah.
By The Boodge From: Tucson, Az Aug 16, 2009 rating: 5.9-
Did this again today, and I have to reiterate that this is pretty solid for 5.8 trad. I found the placements to be somewhat difficult, and from awkward stances. Also watched a couple of 5.8 followers have difficulty with the crux up high. Fun, challenging route, but I wouldn't recommend it for new trad leaders or those near their limit at 5.8 or 9.
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