The Matterhorn boulder in the mist. Jewel Thief is...
Description
The best boulder on Mt. Lemmon. Tall, proud, and a fair number of problems in every grade. It is sharp, but quite good quality granite. It was developed by the famed boulderer Bob Murray. I hope you find this useful and let me know if I'm incorrect about anything.
Getting There
Take the Mt. Lemmon highway to mile marker 15.8, and park in the pullout on the left. Cross the road to the east. Just left of the road-cut, take the trail to the right, heading up the little hill. The Matterhorn Boulder is the big square boulder shaped like a ship’s prow on top of the hill, 100 ft. off the road.
From the master...(Bob Murray, Bouldering Beyond Campbell, early 80s):
Matterhorn Boulder
(1) A few feet left of the overhanging outside corner is an obvious flake at eye level. Go up and left. B1+ Variation: with both hands on the flake, lunge up and left to the good fingertip hold. Eliminate the good left foothold at the start. B2
(2) Start same as (1) but go up and right to a small horn. Continue up and right. B1+
(3) Similar to (2) but use a hold around the corner to reach the small horn with the left hand. B1
(4) Start just around the corner from the first three problems. Climb the overhanging corner till one is forced to move left to join (3) at the small horn. B2
(5) Start same as (4). Good holds lead up and right to a difficult crux. B1+
(6) Start about ten feet right of (4), at a small ledge near the ground. Go up and right to the righthand corner of the overhanging face. B2 (jbak's note...this is the problem Murray later refered to as "Jewel Thief".)
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