Rev. Robert Mcleod on the 2nd pitch. Juggy moderat...
Description
Bag an easy summit on this cute miniature mountain. Three newer routes are bolted up the steep face right of the Standard Route, but I'm not sure what there are rated. Each pulls over the big roof at the second bolts and goes up an easier-looking face. 5.10, 5.11? The rock is somewhat questionable under the overhang. Good bouldering is nearby on Matterhorn boulder, just to the south.
Getting There
Easy five minute approach. Park on the east side of the road at a pullout across from Lizard Rock. The Matterhorn is the obvious 200-foot peak visible through the trees. A lonely little tree stands atop the summit. Follow the wash to an absolutely bizarre little balanced rock pinnacle (someone has to have climbed this, despite the licheny slab topout). Take the right fork of the wash and up across slabs to another wash/gully. Follow this wash to where you can see the Matterhorn again through an opening in the trees. A few yards more and there is something vaguely trail-like heading right to the base of the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Matterhorn:
to the left of the easy chimney route there is a finger crack that protects the start much better. its about 5.9 and it goes past a small tree about 10 feet off the ground. if you go strait up the chimney you have to wait a little while for your pro and it gets a bit run out over easy terrain. FA?
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Jun 14, 2008
As mentioned above, the tree on the summit is no longer there. There is, however, a huge boulder on the summit that can be slung with 10-12' of webbing for a bomber anchor.
Any info on the bolted routes on the backside, I didn't go up top but it seems you could top rope the route. Odd spot for a climb, I didn't spend much time but it didn't seem to have a good location to belay. It looks like there are two sets on anchors.
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