Christian crimping, jamming, and stemming as he ap...
Description
This route is located on the far right end of Chimney Rock, just right of the steep, bolted Ratline (5.11). Climb the left leaning, large dihedral for two pitches. Cruxy moves, and great protection, are encountered on both pitches. A two bolt anchor at the top of Ratline marks the top of the first pitch. A savvy leader can easily link the first two pitches. This is desirable as the first belay is hanging while the second belay is one of the best on the mountain (and also bolted). The last pitch goes up a short offwidth and steep handcrack. Walk off to the right. If you like this one, make sure you do Cripple Creek on the Pharoah.
Protection
Standard rack and one 4" piece if you want it for the offwidth on the last pitch
By Steve Pulver From: Tucson, AZ Sep 14, 2004 rating: 5.10b
I've only done the first pitch of the route. I thought the quality of the climbing was some of the best on the mountain. I also like the fact that there were great stances to place gear as frequently as I like.
I didn't have enough juice to link P1 and P2. After getting in a good rest at the first anchor, I linked P2 and P3 which went pretty smoothly. Great climb.
Like Rick says, doing P1 and 2 together make for a stellar climb.
For the local aficionado who's done this N times already, try the Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat exit up at the top. That's the obvious set of left trending roofs. I recall that being fun and exhilarating.
However, I wouldn't call it the best route at Chimney. For my money, that goes to EAJiH. That's the left to right girdle of the cliff. But then, I like girdle climbs. There's never a dull moment for the leader or the second.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jun 17, 2009 rating: 5.10a
There's some rotten rock near the start of both the first and second pitches so watch where you protect.
A #5 would protect the offwidth at the bottom of the third pitch better than a #4.
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