Chimney Rock, March 2003, the day after a rather h...
Description
Chimney Rock is a large, freestanding formation on the west side of the Catalina Highway near mp 11. Proximity to the highway, and a variety of climbing, have made Chimney Rock a popular crag for many years.
The Standard Route (5.7+) is a fun traditional climb that meanders for five short pitches up the broad east face of Chimney Rock. Moderate climbing and comfortable belays make this a great route to learn about multi-pitch climbing.
The southern portion of the east face also hosts a number of harder routes, many of superb quality. On the back (west) side of Chimney Rock are a couple of very hard sport routes. These can be inspected by rapping off the top of Chimney Rock where Standard Route finishes.
Getting There
Driving up the Catalina Highway, go past Chimney Rock and park in a large pullout on the right just past mp 11. Highway construction has destroyed the old access point, so you have two options.
Direct option: From pullout, walk down-highway about a quarter mile until you are directly below the east face of Chimney Rock. (Be careful walking as there is not much shoulder here).Just below Chimney Rock, there is a break in the cliff where you can fourth-class up about 15 feet to access the rock. This is what remains of the old access. Be careful not to fall into the roadway or kick rocks down onto passing cars.
Safe option: From pullout, walk across the highway to a large culvert. Scramble up slope just right of this culvert to gain the upper ledge. Bushwack south 1/4 mile, paralleling the highway until you reach Chimney Rock.
This plum was picked in the late seventies by the prolific Steve Grossman. The route starts in the small dihedral to the right of Stoner's Boner. 20 feet up, it pulls a small roof with a hand crack in it. The top section gets steeper and finishes with good pro and a great steep hand crack that is as good as they come on Mt. Lemmon. Great rock, great line and great gear....[more]
Chimney Rock
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