Boothill area,the Green Monster Crack is on the fa...
Description
Boot Hill is the obvious north-facing cliff above the Prison Camp campground to the southeast. It appears in "Squeezing the Lemmon" on page 135 with a handful of routes developed in 1989 by Doug Lantz and Diane Vetter. More recently (since July 2004), the crag has been adopted and developed by Andy Peter and Steve Kanoza. They have added 29 new routes (5.5 to 5.11), mostly sport and mixed routes with chains or Metolius rap hangers. The rock varies from crumbly to solid - test the holds and watch out for rockfall. The routes are mostly on the north and west faces, so most routes are shady most of the day, but some sunshine can be had in the afternoon. The low elevation and shade should mean comfortable temps for early Spring and late Fall days as well as warm Winter days.
Getting There
Park in the southern-most parking area in the Prison Camp Campground. Head up a fire break as far as possible, then follow a cairn-marked trail uphill to the crags. The main branch in the trail will take you to "the Brickyard" area around the bottom of "Branch Breaker", near the center of the available routes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boot Hill:
This route is worth the hike up the hill to get to it. Its a pumpy vertical to slightly overhung face with thin ledges for feet and hands and bomber hand holds right where and when you need them. Turn right at the top of the trail and look for an obvious west facing triangular face (narrow on the bottom and wider at the top) with two sets of chains in the middle and the left top. There is a slab on the right side of the route. Boulder up the ...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
This is a good sport crag, that is easy to get to. We found the ratings to be about one grade lower than stated on the topos. Still a fun area and worth going to!!!!
Don't go straight uphill from parking lot, routes are towards the far right hand side of the rock formations you see from the lot..
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Dec 8, 2005
Boot hill is a great area, nice belay ground and even bolts to clip in the belayer for the ledges. Its a little cold right now, but still great climbing.
To access the Fireplace and the Void Wall, hike past Dunka Dunk and scramble up to the ridge.From here you can follow a cairn marked trail to the base of the Fire Place. The first climb you'll encounter is climb #32 Reachy Riley.This approach takes about 3 minutes from Dunka Dunk and several more minutes to reach the Void Wall. The approach as stated on the topo's is no longer valid!
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Apr 25, 2006
Regardless of what some people say, I think this is an awesome area. It is still comfortable climbing right now. Lots of easy, well-protected sport routes close together and a few reasonably harder ones for the intermediate climber to work on make this crag great for beginner and intermediate climbers. Anyone could come here to learn sport climbing, as long as they have boots!
I climbed there in the dead of summer last year and it was fine temperaturewise, shade until early afternoon and even after that not too bad..there's always a rock around for some shade in between climbs..
But there was a lot of little bugs (gnats?)..One of those mosquito nets for your head is pretty useful for the belayer..Might not be so bad this year with the drought..
Might be better to post the topo on the home page for Boot Hill rather than under one specific climb?
Boothill was developed during the peak of summer,but this was only possible with early (before sunrise starts).Climbed here late afternoon this past weekend and found no shade.The only way we found shade was when we weren't climbing.Early starts make it possible to climb here during the summer,if not it's better to head higher up...
This area has lots of climbs and a good number of moderates (under 5.10) which newer climbers need. Liked Little Rubber Ducky and Branch Breaker. Might not go here if I was from out of town but for locals looking for climbs to take beginners on it is a good area. In other words if you have done a lot of climbing and are no longer impressed by the novelty of being tied to a rope and climbing a rock I suggest you go there after you have done tons of other routes on the mountain and are looking anything new. Hope that clears it up for guys like Jbak.
This area is great for folks learning how to lead. "Bloody Mary" is a great first lead even though the tree gets in the way of the belayer. "New Year's Day" is a great corner climb for early leading.
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