BETA PHOTO: Mendoza Canyon - Table Dome - Wily Javelina
Description
This is a phenomenal line that wonders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch.
The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next bolt or belay station. All anchors are bolted.
The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. The rest will feel more smooth and consistently easy face climbing, though a bit flaky in places and a few short crux moves here and there... nothing is harder than 5.8/5.9(-)
The last pitch finishes on the big ledge under the rock feature on the top. You can scramble around the west side of this feature to summit. Great views from there, is really worth it!
Location
The route starts close bellow of some brown water streak marks on the middle-right side of the wall. There is an obvious roof at the base of the streaks. The first bolt of Wily is about 30 feet left of the roof. This bolt is about 30 feet up from the base but the climbing is easy (the actual roof is the first pitch of Table for Two).
From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down. You will need two ropes to rap down.
Protection
The line is all bolted. A few nuts and plenty of slings for chicken heads come handy. All the anchors are bolted but they have no chains, only slings. If you need to bail, consider changing a few of them.
This is an awsome route if you like slab. As for the "R" rating, It is well bolted through the harder moves and run out on the easy sections. For a really solid 5.9 leader, it will seem very safe, but for someone who is shaky on a 5.9, you may want to wait. The first bolt is probably 30-40' from the ground on relatively easy climbing. The last two pitches are only protected by one bolt and chicken heads, but there are bomber holds everywhere and the chicken heads are good.
Fun route. I actually thought pitch 4 was the most fun and probably the crux. An airy couple moves over the bulge on good rock. Some substantial runouts on probably 5.8 terrain. The rock quality isn't as classic as Cochise, but it's a perfect outing if you're looking for something moderate but still exciting, long and adventurous. I placed 2 pieces all day- a big (yellow i think) BD C4 on pitch 3 (probably unnecessary) and a .3 camalot on the last pitch. Also slung 3 or 4 chicken heads on the last 2 pitches. Have fun!
FOR GETTING THERE- Start your clock for the 0.8 miles mentioned above at the sign in station. Note that you will pass several right turns before you hit the correct one. There was some faded pink flagging on a bush at the correct turn.
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