Mendoza Canyon is a rugged area of granite domes with great climbing and adventure for backcountry climbers. BLM-administered, as part of the Coyote Domes Wilderness area. Routes vary in length from 2 to 8 pitches with most in the higher end of that range. A wide variety of difficulty can be found as well, from fun 5.6 to scary, runout 5.11. There are also aid routes for those wishing to carry more gear.
Some of the aproaches follow fairly well developed trails. Others still require bushwhacking and having your belay gloves handy during the hike might not be a bad idea.
The descent for many of the climbs involves rappelling the route. Most belay stations are more than half a rope length apart so bring 2 ropes. 50 meter lengths are standard for the area. Bolted rappel stations do not usually have chains and the low volume of climbers in the area means the slings are usually pretty old by the time the next climber gets to them. Be sure to bring enough webbing to get down safely. New route development is still active. A traditional style has been maintained and is greatly appreciated in the area.
Getting There
Take Ajo way west from Tucson to Three Points. Turn South on Hwy 286. Follow 286 for about 8 mi and turn West at the (KING'S ANVIL RANCH AT MP 37.6---NOT KING'S RANCH WHICH COMES FIRST). Follow a good dirt road through the ranch, stopping to sign in and get a permit (free), at the back gate. Continue west (0.8 MILES) through the wash, passing a very small turn off then taking the first, clear road to the right. It is common to miss this turn off. Follow this road west (FOR 5.5 MILES) then turn right immediately after a fence near some obvious rocks. Park at the gate and walk (OR RIDE BIKES) the remaining 2 miles of road. Supposedly this gate is sometimes open and the last 2 miles can be driven. (Even if it is open, it is advised not to drive it unless a new sign says it's ok. The sign that's been up there ever since they closed the gate says no vehicles. We don't want to piss off our rancher friends by driving inpast those kinds of signs.)
At the end of the road cross the dam of the small reservoir and follow trails to the domes from here.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes):
This is a phenomenal line that wonders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch. The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the '...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Photos of Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes) Slideshow
The dirt roads near the parking area are various and a bit confusing, so I add, here, where one should be shooting for.
The Mendoza Canyon "walls" form a huge C-shape, and when you head in from the Anvil Ranch you will be approaching the mouth of the 'C'. The parking lot area (the end of the "5.5 miles" mentioned in "Getting There") where you have to put on your packs and walk.....is at the more-southern "tip of the C-shape". That is, it's where you finish the penstroke and lift your pen off the paper, if you were drawing a C on paper.
So don't get discouraged if you are getting closer to the domes and are on a seemingly errant dirt road headed straight-south and slowly away from the centre of the canyon. That's what happened to us, and, just about when i was giving up hope, that road turned sharply to the west and ended at the "very obvious rocks" which compose the end of the C. The gate was solidly padlocked shut when we were there two weeks ago, but the 2-mile walk in/out is 'no problema'.
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