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Linda Vista Wall
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Heirarchy of Needs 
Mental Health 
Old School 
Sent To The Office 
Spritual Renewal 
Urban escape 

Sent To The Office 

5.10c

   

FA: Chris Craig and John McCarrol 2003
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Season: Winter, spring , or fall
Views: 314 page views

Submitted By: Chris Craig on Jul 18, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Goes up the middle of face to the left of the green lichen spot.
1. 5.7100 feet 2 bolts plus gear to a two bolt belay.
2. Continue up step left to 3 bolts(5.8) Continue up easy but loose rock to a 2 bolt anchor on a huge ledge.130 feet
3. 5.6. 60 feet.
4. Strenuous move over bulge. 7 bolt to the top.
Rap the route.

Can be rapped with one rope by cutting over to the right onto anchors of Hierarchy of needs.


Location 

Follow the linda vista trail towards Pusch peak. When the trail is 20 feet from the rock and next to a smooth slab you are at the base of Sent to the Office. 35 minutes


Protection 

One set of cams to a #2 Camelot. All anchors are bolt with chains



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By Jimbo
Nov 1, 2008

OK, first of all, kudos for taking the time, and putting in the energy, and dollars for the routes out here. Any new route is better than no new route.
That said, I can't agree with the stars your giving these routes.
We did "Sent to the Office", "Urban Escape" and some version of "Hierarchy or Needs" today. The only pitch that was even close to 3 stars was the last pitch of "Sent to the Office". Fun, steep and the best rock of any pitch we did. All other pitches were either loose, unsustained or a combination of the two.
I applaud, and love, your enthusiasm, but enthusiasm does not equal stars. If I had a dollar for every star I've yanked off a new route the second time I climbed it, I'd could pay someone to drill routes for me.
The "loose" is especially true of the last pitch on "Urban Escape". Very fun climbing, sustained at the grade, but dudes there's loads of loose on that pitch that could take out the belayer. (And there ain't no place to hide on the belay) You need to go up there with a crow bar and spiff it up, a bunch! think 5 feet on both side of the bolts. Then motor over to the other routes and pry some more.
I understand it's a "backcountry" route, and in my 30 years of climbing I've pulled on my share of choss, but in today's world, if your putting up a sport route you need to have sport climbers in mind. 3 stars is a big magnet. 3 stars and bolts is a bigger magnet. If your posting a 3 pitch "3 star" sport route there's some reponsibility involved. Like it or not.
In my opinion ONE STAR is a fair rating on all the routes we did, and only if you like fuzzy routes with loads of flora and a back country feel.
Helmets for the leader and belayer are mandatory here!!
We had neither, but we're cantankerous old guys and nobody would notice if we had a head injury.
I will go back and do "Spritual Renewal" because I do like fuzzy backcountry routes and the last pitch looked killer.


By Chris Craig
From: tucson, AZ
Jan 25, 2009

Been back and did some cleaning up. Hope you like it.

By Jimbo
Jan 28, 2009

Cool beans, when it warms up a little, and I stop working. I'm there. Thanks Chris.