This route is very featured at the start and gets harder and steeper as you go up.
Location
This route is the first one on the right on this wall. It is on a formation by itself and has extremely featured rock at the start. It is approximately 20 feet to the right of Mordor.
Protection
6 or so bolts to chains. Please don't toprope out of the chains.
Does anyone know if this is the 5.10X trad route in Toula's old guide called Sporte?
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az Dec 11, 2007 rating: 5.10b
The first bolt of this climb might need to be replaced soon. Not only is the hanger spinning, but the bolt itself is loose in its hole. The crux of this climb could seem hard if you're trying to pull through on brute strength, but with careful footwork its not too bad.
New anchors should be finished by this afternoon, with good chains. Thanks to Stan Mish for the use of his hand drill ( he also offered up some ole "no gud" hangers but I didn't want to scare the kiddos!) and to Chris T. for saving the day with a power drill. Who knew hand drilling in limestone could be such a pain in the ass. Enjoy
Just a "heads up" literally, about halfway up this route is a block around the size of the old block on Mordor with significant fracture lines almost all the way around it. I know, I know True Value has looked like that for year, but might be good to try and avoid this.
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