Steep face moves get you to a huge ledge and then 12 more feet get you to the chains.
Location
Center of the main wall. Left side of the big wall that comes closest to the trail. This route and Where the Buffalo Roam are the only climbs on this section of face.
Using the arete just below the big ledge bypasses what I think is the crux, downgrading this climb to 10b.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Feb 6, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Somewhat difficult crux section leaving the horizontal crack prior to gaining the large ledge - don't stop at the ledge the route goes another 3 bolts to the anchor.
9 bolts plus anchor
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Dec 16, 2007
The crux is definitely the crimps between the big horizontal crack and the ledge. I would believe 10b with the arete and 10d with the crimps. It's also really fun moves above the ledge!
Have to agree with Luke on this one. A number of routes here are like that. The top of Fourplay is another one. The 5.10 to the left of Fourplay, the 12 to the left of that just to name a few. Doesn't really matter. If you find yourself asking if something is off route then the line is probably a little contrived. Doesn't really matter but it may change the grade a little as it does on this climb and the others I mentioned.
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