The route to the immediate right of the .12 roof is also a newer route. It does start on an arete the attempts to lead you away from the crack through a small roof. Somewhat contrived but it's only 5.10 not 5.11. Fourplay is 20 feet farther right around the next corner. I agree with jbak, Fourplay is a great route.
No question about your comparison jbak. The question is, is it a 3 star route for La Milagrosa. That is, is it better than all the other routes in the canyon. If it is only a two star route then any other route that is not as good as Fourplay in Milagrosa is only a one star route. And any route that is not as good as the, now, one star routes, are no star routes. I don't think there are any no star routes in Milagrosa. Maybe we should go to an a,b,c,d, add on to the star system. That way Fourplay could be a **/c while Community Service would be a **/a.
Did this climb today, thought it was stellar. Felt like solid .11 to me. Stay close to the bolts toward the end so you can do the sweet finish sequence.
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Dec 16, 2007 rating: 5.11b
The first bolt short have been 1 foot down and 1 foot right, the second should have been 3 foot right and a few inches down, but I didn't lead it so don't take my word for it. This is one crimpy son-uva-gun! Climb it when its cold, so you can't feel the pain!
(Edit: I have been informed that there is a nice sequence straight up the first two bolts, but it escapes me. I really enjoyed the sequence to the right though.)
By Chelsea Cook From: Tucson, AZ Apr 14, 2009 rating: 5.11a
When I informed a friend that Stealin' was my favorite climb on the mountain he thought I was crazy and recommended this climb. I am sooo glad he did because it is now my favorite climb to date! If you like crimpy, technical moves, this is the route for you!
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Apr 20, 2009 rating: 5.11b
Nice work Chelsea!
This is the kind of 5.11 I should be able to send (more technical, less steep), but I botched the sequence before the ledge and took a whip.
Hey Chelsea, were you down there this past weekend? Too hot or just right in the shade? We debated about going there but ultimately headed up the mountain a bit. On the way back down we were still left to wonder what the conditions actually were?
BTW, that is a nice route and always worth a ride!
By Chelsea Cook From: Tucson, AZ Apr 25, 2009 rating: 5.11a
Thanks Geir, thanks Christian! Susan, the last day that I was out there was that day there were 50mph gusts- which was not fun. I haven't been out there since then, but my experience with Milagrosa this time of year has been that the Main Wall stays nice since it's shaded most of the day. I hope you had fun higher on the mountain!