Kelly Canyon

Another beautiful day at Kelly. Jeff Snyder on awe...

Description 

A peaceful ponderosa-forested canyon with tons of bouldering on cliffs and boulders of Coconino sandstone. This is THE place to come to get your sloper fix in Arizona. Many, many fantastic problems with some of the most incredible features anywhere - rails, dishes, pockets, pinches, crimpers, cracks, most of them solid and all of them finger-friendly. Some problems are over 20 feet and many have committing, sloping topouts so multiple pads and spotters are pretty much essential. Since it is sandstone, a soft-bristled brush (especially an extendable one) is nice to have as well. The prime season for Kelly is September through November when it's cold and dry. Summers can be toasty, though it's easy to find shade; however, winter is generally a bust as the canyon's east-west orientation blocks out most sunlight and prevents snow from melting and drying out. Unless it is an exceptionally warm and snow-free winter don't plan on coming between the first heavy snow and perhaps the middle of April. This is a great place to come and forget about names and grades, to just find a line that inspires you and throw yourself at it. For many it's the best bouldering in Flagstaff.

Getting There 

From I-17 exit Kelly Canyon Rd. and go west then immediately turn right (north) on a dirt road, passable by most cars if you drive carefully. Drive a couple miles staying right at all forks, passing a big area where people go to shoot their guns, until you see a fairly obvious parking area with fire pit on the right. Follow the trail down to the canyon (stay on the trail!) until you reach the bottom - this is the Trailer Park. Maybe 20 driving minutes from Flagstaff, followed by less than 5 minutes walking.

The Classics

Featured Route For Kelly Canyon

The Traverse V7-8  AZ : Kelly Canyon : Arkansas & Traverse Wall

The best traverse (really the only traverse that gets done) at Kelly Canyon. Very steep, but secure pulls out the overhang lead to pumpy, increasingly difficult sloper and crimp moves with heelhooks and bad feet, finally reaching nice pockets about halfway across. Easier moves on mostly good holds end at a jug just left of the tree. Every single move on this problem is awesome (yes really.)...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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An extendable brush is a nice accessory, especiall...