Now for the fun! Traversing right to the arete to ...
Description
This route is great. A true 5.11a in my opinion (if you have been to jacks, you would know what I mean here.) Nice pocketed climbing over three different roofs to the chain anchor!
The crux of this climb is getting established just under the last roof (right most edge of the last roof). I found a good crimper that I cross to with my left hand with my right hand in the bucket pocket that you WILL find. A high step crank and the crimper gets you to a positive hold just around the corner. One can easily clip the bolt on the second roof and then back-track to the crack to get a shake.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Oct 21, 2007 rating: 5.11a
The description above to me seems a little misleading. This route has it all but doesn't really take you up and over the 3 roof systems as the bolt line skirts you off to the left until the final moves.
This route provides lots of variety including a bouldery start, pockets, cracks and liebacking of flakes. As it nears the top it gets a bit steeper and for sure the crux is moving right using what looks to be big pocket up high but don't seem to feel so good. At the lip of the final roof is a two shut anchor.
It's nice, well protected and worth a run if in the area.
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