Larry Coats climbing into the crux on Jump Back Ja...
Description
I was worked by this "odub", and had to bail off high on the pitch using my #6 Friend and a sling. It was great!
This is a single pitch of un-relenting OW. Two different starts are available. The one on the left looks harder than the one I chose on the right. While potentially easier, the rope seems to run over a sharp-ish edge when leading the right start, and some crumbly footing. Both starts are about 4.5 inch cams or so. After that, it gets a bit wider & squeeze.
If you have to shamelessly bail like I did, you can easily lower from the top to get your anchor gear back.
Location
Sweet offwidth at the far right side of the crag. Go all the way right (some moderate bushwhacking could be involved) past the "right side slab climbs". This will be obvious. OW at the far right, almost at the cliff's end.
Protection
Bring the complete OW arsenal. I brought 2 x 4s, 2 x 4.5s (old camalot sizes), a green size big bro, a 6 friend, and some slings. Even with this had to bail high up on the pitch because I didn't have enough big stuff. If you have to lead this, I would suggest bringing at least two cams in the 6 friend realm, and possibly big bro one size higher than green. There was an old looking bolt a little bit higher than where I got to, not sure why (a #5-6 cam would fit there easily?!).
FA Rusty Bailly and the lads. I first saw that wicked wicked crack in 1976 or 77 and it scared me silly. The landing if you fell without gear was a monstrous cacti. The bolt was drilled on lead during a subsequent effort to lead the evil gash. The story I was told is that it was an epic effort done on lead. The climber had to wedge their body in and frantically hand drill behind their head and shoulder.
followed "meep meep" jay up the direct start, who lead it with 4 pieces including the bolt. as jay said, "it's the kinda route that wants to make you throw up" as it is a change, left to right to left to right side in much of the way.
This route was all Karl Karlstrom, or at least the original lead. Not sure about the left side direct variation. Left side is harder than right side but the upper stuff is where the meat of the matter gets left.
And yes, he was run out in the crack, with a leg jam and one very awkward stance to drill from. Over his head and off to the side. He told me he'd pounded in a bong then just started chunking along.
This was one burly lead for the time. I've always been amazed by the audacity of launching into the horrific looking crack and stopping to drill.
This fat crack rejected a lot (I think all, except Karl) of the good Az climbers of the day (until the big bros came along), even ones with substantial OW experience.
A sustained, wonderful OW experience. Expect most of the climbing to be very strenuous. There are good rests inbetween the crux OW sections.
I brought 3 #4, 5, and 6 camalots. Make sure to save 1 #6 for the top crux (sloping OW layback). After completing the first crux (protected by the old bolt) you will have to do a very tight squeeze chimney/OW. Big cams don't work here so if you are bothered by that bring a BigBro. I had to run the chimney section out at about 5.9.
I climb all over Granite Mountain and have incredible respect for Karl, Scott, Rusty, and David. I can't imagine doing this in the fashio they did back then. Bravo.
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