This is one of the two exit pitches from the top of the Flying Buttress. Though better protected than the High Exposure exit, this pitch is still heads up, and stiff for the grade.
From the top of the flying buttress, climb straight up thin incut edges on exposed slab past several widely spaced bolts, aiming for the obvious right facing dihedral above. Just before you reach the dihedral, make a crux mantle onto a shelf a ways above your last bolt. Put some gear into the nice crack in the dihedral, and cruise to the top.
Protection
Several finger to hand sized pieces, some quickdraws.
I have always believed this to be better than High Exposure (a single star route). The combo of p1/2 of Said and Done, p3 of Reunion, and p4 Beaver Cleaver is the single best combo on GM.
stepping above the bolt is 'spice' in life, but not near dangerous.
I think this route is less protected than the High Exposure exit. It really only has the one bolt (before reaching the crack system) and a fall from just below that bolt or just before reaching the crack would be a nasty fall. The High Exposure Exit has two bolts. On each route they do share an extra bolt at the start, but this bolt is so low that it hardly counts as protection. You're going to hit the buttress regardless of this bolt. Also, High Exposure is 5.6 and has good holds. The Beaver Clever seems more like 5.9 to me and the crux is well above that bolt. That's my two cents anyway. I just did it two days ago and it was scarier than the pitches I did to get up there (Said and Done to Reunion) and nearly as hard. Full value pitch.
RSS Feed
