Magnolia is definitely on the must do list for GM. On the far left side of the Middle Section, look for a stem box down low. The first pitch gives you two cracks, a box, and a wee roof for your pleasure. The roof is better on one side or the other, but they share difficulty. After the roof you will encounter some 4th class terrain. I suggest you continue through this until the next belay can be reached. The 2nd pitch takes the next crack system right of C.W. Hicks. Climb a RT angling crack up dihedral up to hanging flake roof. This part is pretty awesome. Chimney your way out and over. Watch the rope drag on this part. I would also suggest that you continue up a ways if possible to set a belay where it looks like all the technical climbing is down. We unroped many times for the last bit. It is a bit exciting and pretty safe easy climbing. Saves time to get down and onto the next prize.
Location
Far left side of Middle Section.
Protection
Standard rack, doubles, wires, runners. No fixed belays.
Magnolia Thunderpussy was a "dancer" in San Francisco in the 60's in the Haight district. The Grateful Dead song "Sugar Magnolia" is about her. I think there was a bar in Haight Ashbury named for her later, but I don't know about one in Boulder.
Time to declare the emperor is naked. The first pitch is not 5.9. I led it once and TRed it a couple of time and I think it feels like 5.10+, and possibly a 5.10-.
Like many of the routes on Granite Mountain, this one is sandbagged by a couple of grades, so be warned. I only did the first pitch, so my comments only apply to it.
Nevertheless, the first pitch is fantastic and it takes great pro.
The 5.9- Rating is not a shock on this route. Granite Mountain is known for having sandbagged (accurate?) graded routes. The roof move COULD go at 5.10a if you really wanted to regrade it. The roof has a good rest before it, perfect hands, and feet develop as you go through it. Nothing wrong with the grade if you ask me. Compare it to Coatimundi's second pitch or Candyland's third pitch; both of them are harder in my opinion and the same grade.
As for the climb itself... Fantastic crack climbing/stemming up to the roof. Fire it left (original way I believe) or right (preferred, perfect hands) and continue up a crack for a bit more. After that the route lets up some. One more exposed, awkward move brings you out of the famous "flake". Easy/anticlimactic chimneying brings you to the top. Do in two pitches with a 70M rope, just make sure to go far enough on pitch 1.
Great linkup - Magnolia -> C.W. Hicks
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.9-
Classic GM grading. I love how the topo grades the route 5.9-, yet shows both roof variations going at 5.9... Both roof exits are fun- right is harder but protects better- left is easier but involves a mantle into an OW flare. I disagree with Kyle- the chimney moves out of the flake on p3 are anything but anticlimatic- I have known a number of strong climbers that have gotten spooked on these 5.7 moves. The hidden chimney final pitch is soooo coool. 4 star route all the way
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