The beautiful 3rd pitch splitter crack of Reunion.
Description
Reunion is an excellent line found on the left side of the Flying Buttress. While the middle two pitches aren't the best in the world, the first is pretty okay, and the last one is maybe the best finger crack on the Mountain! As the story goes, when Baxter freed the last pitch, he went up with a few nuts, and ran out towards the end of the pitch. Facing retreat or pushing ahead, he cast out on the finish and pulled off a stylish ascent in bold style!
Start at a nice left-facing corner leading up to where it joins The Classic at a big ledge with a tree.
Pitch 1) Climb the nice left-facing corner (5.7), move left near the top and then continue to big ledge with tree.
Pitch 2) Climb up the corner behind the tree as if starting the Classic Chimney pitch, but break right out across the crack and slab leading out right to the base of a big block and a bolted semi-hanging belay.
Pitch 3) Climb left side of block (5.9+). The start is awkward and it's hard initially to get pro, but the finish is awkward as well, so it's consistent. Watch out that you don't fall off and land on your belayer!! Climb up to belay below the last finger crack pitch. This pitch is only about 40-45 feet or so.
Pitch 4) Climb the incredible-looking hockey-stick-shaped finger crack on the left side of the slab. Can't miss it. Excellent pitch!!!! This will put you atop the Flying Buttress. Do either the High Exposure Exit, the Beaver Cleaver, or descend to the Coke Bottle raps from here.
Location
Left side of the Flying Buttress, starting below a left-facing corner system just right of a tree (same start as the Crack Lovers Variation of The Classic).
it should be known that Baxter exited the 4th pitch crack to the left, and went up the arete instead of the right angle crack. Chris Raypole I was told repeated this feat in the late 1980's. ...and the third pitch is a 2 star at best. said and done to reunion to beaver cleaver is THE flying buttress line.
Reunion's third pitch finger crack is one of the Mountain's best pitches. There are many enjoyable ways to get there. I would recommend Said and Done -> Reunion -> Beaver Cleaver OR Cat's Pajama's -> Reunion.
Don't miss this perfect line!!!
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.10-
Many people climb the 1st pitch of Reunion as the start of the Classic.
The 3rd pitch doesn't get done often- there are two bolts at the belay below this pitch- one is an old 1/4" leeper so beware. The 9+ is full value with sparse pro- a fall before the .75 pocket midway up this pitch will land you on your belayer or the slab below. It is easy to link this pitch with the final one- no rope drag.
For a 4 star linkup- climb the Hotline (first pitch of the Nose, 2nd pitch of Cat's Pajamas, final pitch of Reunion). This is noted as Hiccup Delux on the Cramer topo. Don't know which name is the original- just that the Hotline is what seems to be accepted by the climbing community here.
Said and Done to Reunion is another 4 star linkup with a classic GM 9+ pitch in there!
I think the line between Said and Done and Cat's Pajamas is a great start as it flow right into Said and Done and as you mentioned a good set up for the Reunion finger crack. Start up a short corner and mount the detached fang of rock about 25' up; then climb through the small roof and onto quartz knobs joining Said and Done at the belay. I think the pitch is in the 5.8 range and protects fairly well although it has been a couple of years since I climbed it. I have no idea what this variation was originally called.
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