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DescriptionThe Middle Section (for lack of a better name) contains the bulk of the routes at Granite Mountain, running from Magician over to the right side of the Flying Buttress and the Coke Bottle route.** These are the longest, hardest, and arguably best routes at Granite Mountain, running up to 450 feet in length.
Getting ThereAccess for routes in the Middle Section depends on which route for the most part. Routes on the left end, say from Magician over to Green Savior or so, can be more easily accessed from the trail up to the Swamp Slabs. Routes from (this is approximate) Green Savior over to Coke Bottle are easier to get to by following the climber's trail up to the Front Porch area, racking up, and then hiking to your objective. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Section:
The Classic 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches
Green Savior 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
Beaver Cleaver 5.8+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch
Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.9- Trad
Crack Lover's Variation 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II
Reunion 5.10- Trad, 4 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
The Slammer Jam 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
Kingpin 5.10 PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III
Candyland 5.10 Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III
Coatimundi Whiteout 5.11a Trad, 5 pitches
Featured Route For Middle Section
Candyland 5.10 AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section
Candyland is the right-hand crack system that climbs to the Great Roof in the middle section of Granite Mountain, and exits the roof to the right. Pitch 1: Climb up to the right end of a large flake and traverse it back left to the base of the main crack. Follow this crack through increasingly difficult jamming and stemming to the crux flakes near the bolt (5.10), through the overhang and to the belay on three modern bolts (thanks to efforts by R...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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