BETA PHOTO: This is the second pitch of Pegasus on Mt Hayden i...
Description
climb left side of a large flake toward the North end of the East face, then up flaring finger and hand crack (10c) to good ledge. P2: move belay left, climb Right angling steep dihedral (10+) to a nice pine tree to belay. P3: up easy wide crack then fingers in dihedral to overhanging pod (10-) then short face to awesome summit. Rap South face original route (3x with one 70m and a little scrambling).
Location
East face of Mt Hayden. Approach via gully north of Pt Imperial. approach time: 1.5-2hrs, this is the crux!
We rapped the route, Pegasus, w/ double 9s. Much cleaner than std rappel.
The above description is inacurrate for the first pitch, or else my directions are 180 out.
If the climb ascends the N face, which I believe it does, then the first pitch starts on the N side almost at the W corner. Up a rounded corner, crack to where it ends and a bit of slightly run out 5.10 takes you right to another thin crack up to a tree on the ledge. I believe we thought this might be +, can't recall since it's been 20+ years.
EDIT: I think first pitch can be seen in the lower right side of Pernell's pic. Starts right side of the block, corner ? Ends at the tree right at the edge of the ledge.
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