BETA PHOTO: The route goes up the right side of the left most ...
Description
Climbs the less often visited East side of the Westworld Dome. See Bob Kerry description here =>http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page272.html All bolts have hangers. 5th pitch not as dicey as description says nor is the route necky by modern standards. Fun route with easy approach and fantastic views. Finding the descent route can be a bit frustrating. Look far over the east edge on the summit to spy the hanging belay bolts which facilitate 140' rap to tree (another 140' to ground from tree). Two ropes.
Location
The approach is way easier than described in Kerry's book. Walk up dry wash that leads to squaretop. Less than 5min you see a rock cairn which marks a side trail out of the wash along the northeast (hikers left) side. Follow climber trail along flat ground until in turns into drainage which leads to east buttress route. Occasionally marked with cairns and well-traveled; easy to see in most places following line of least resistance.
Protection
Gear to 3", pitch one has a bolt, pitch two has three bolts... all pitches protect well with cracks and/or slung chickenheads/chickenwings.
Say what? The description as stated is inaccurate. In respect to the approach the access trail(s) are not well-established, and the route, as Kerry accurate describes, is runout and not to be taken casually. There are two significant runouts: pitch 1 (or pitch 2 depending on if you break up the pitch- which is advisable), and the final pitch, where my partner lassoed the chicken-head before making the move. The rap anchors are hidden from view and you need to climb down a ways to find them. Despite needing 2 more bolts, it's a great route and a great adventure.
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