By Neil Barrett
From: Sierra Vista
Jan 20, 2009
| Awesome route Mike. Thanks for all your efforts.
This is a very fun route and I predict it will become the favorite of Sweet Rock. It really has everything; under clings, slabs, overhangs, body wedges, laybacks, and balancy little crimpers. No one move is more then 5.9, but it's long so my hands got tired towards the top when you pull over the layback and have to fight for that last few feet.
It looks intimidating from below. As you go over the second crux move, about 50 feet up, all you can see from the bottom is a very smooth wall, but rest assured if you move to the out of sight left side of the crack, life is good. Here there is a nice place to stand and enjoy the view and rest for a minute before you tackle the final layback crux.
Bolt placement is solid with good holds for clipping-in. The big rocks have been cleaned, though you may want to belay back away from the wall as little stones and pebbles are still coming off. With a few more people climbing it, that shouldn't take too long. If you don't mind not seeing the climber when you belay, there's a well protected spot just to the right of the start that is under a roof. |
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