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Jaw Breaker 

5.10a/b

   

FA: Daryl Allen
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 140 feet
Views: 365 page views

Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Check out the cool chalk bag I picked up at Summit...


Description 

Challenging vertical line that goes up between Hot Tamale and Pop Rocks almost sharing holds with Pop Rocks at one point. Half way up is a fun and well - protected crux, after which, the climb eases up eventually ending at a roomy ledge with chain anchors. Continuing up to the summit is another 40 feet or so that starts up a dihedral with 9+ moves easing up immediately after pulling onto the ledge. Another two bolt chain anchor will let you bring up your second safely. A 70m rope will get you down from the top anchor but don't expect to TR the entire route from there. Pulling your rappel line from the top anchors is best done from on top the boulder 30 feet back from the wall. Walk off to the north or double rap if using a 60m.


Location 

Steep blocky face right of Hot Tamale.


Protection 

bolts, Mid point and top anchors



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By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 31, 2009

Route has cleaned up nicely and is super fun. The first time I climbed it the loose rock really sketched me out. Just had a chance to run up it again and it is fun, fun. Steep, sustained and exposed.

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 13, 2009

Definitely a one-move wonder route; most of it is 5.8. Crux is smack dab in the middle.

By The Boodge
From: Tucson, Az
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b

One move wonder, for sure, but I found this route to be less "permanent" than Hot Tomale. I also think the crux move on this route is harder than any single move on Hot Tomale...I give it the same difficulty rating and 1 less star.