The Stronghold Dome is huge buttress which may be a dome by definition, but not in character. This 400'+ rock holds several good crack and face lines, out of the slabby character that the word 'dome' calls to my mind when I hear it. These lines include the classic Beeline (9+) as well as other good routes such as Big Time(5.10), Reen's Arete (7), and Shake & Bake(9+). There are also three 5.11 sport routes here reputed to be of good quality.
The rock on Stronghold Dome is mostly good, but there are some flaky sections on a few routes. Climb with caution on these and place gear carefully. Stronghold Dome has a mild approach, so you can run up there for multiple routes, or on a part-day to get in just a few pitches.
The South face gets daytime sun, but the East side is shaded in late day and sunny in the morning. Plan as per the weather.
To descend from any of the top-out-routes, rap off of the West end with 2 50+ Meter ropes (improvise) or walk off to the north, then scramble down west and back south.
Getting There
From the East side campground parking area, walk back NE on the road until you come to a huge rock in the middle of the road. There are probably still multiple no-parking signs here at what otherwise would be the trail-head. Up the hill to the north you will see a huge buttress, which is Cochise Dome. Hike up a drainage, following cairns and a well-worn trail to the buttress. If you keep an eye out for it, you will not only see the trail, but also some native rock-art on a few boulders on the way in. At the top of the drainage the trail turns east and heads directly to the west end of the Cochise Dome. You will arrive near the base of Beeline.
We did this route in 3 pitches, not 2. This worked well for us.Another great route. The first pitch is best and is what justifies the classic rating, but the rest is also good.Approach Stronghold dome via the standard trail. You will see a striking roof on the south end of the East face, perhaps 70 feet off of the gound. A fingercrack ascends to the roof from the ground.P1: 5.9, 70'. Climb a fingercrack from the ground up to the roof above on t...[more]
Stronghold Dome
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