Pitch two with it's classic triangular-shaped roof
Description
Cragaholic’s Dream is one of the nicest routes in the Stronghold, but sees relatively few ascents compared to other climbs at its grade. The climb is entirely gear protected – not a single bolt, a rarity in the Stronghold for a six-pitch climb. It is a true gem not only because of its strictly traditional nature, but also because its rock quality is outstanding. With updated approach directions and a detailed new topo, this climb should be much easier to find and prepare for. For those climbing at the grade, it should not be missed!
Climb and Descent: See topo available at http://www.geir.com/climbs.html. Note that two 60-meter ropes are required to descend!
This climb will take significantly longer to complete than routes of comparable difficulty with bolts. Make sure you are climbing solidly at the grade and allow enough time for you to complete the climb and return to your car.
Protection
All gear. Note that while the first ascentionist's rating is 5.10a/b, I found the climb to be slightly harder at the crux.
Perhaps the real crux is getting to the route. If you follow the fence line alone the wash to the left (don't go thru the gate and up the normal trail to rockfellers)and work your way back to the climb staying in the wash you will eventually come to it, make sure you have a good photo of it as this is the guaranteed way to identify it
Thank you Geir for making your topos available ! It was helpful for the climb and specially for the rappel.
For future parties, there is a probability that your rope may get stuck behind a boulder in the middle of the second rappel, when pulling it to set up the last rappel to the ground, unless you are very, very careful. If you have to go get it, climb the left chimney-groove (5.8 ?) and take at least a #2 and a #1 (perhaps a #3 too, less scary for the downclimb). Bring a headlamp.
Just did this yesterday in perfect shady temps. What an amazing climb. P2 might be the best pitch of climbing at the grade I've done in southern Arizona. Engaging moves on every other pitch. Slot midway up P3 is interesting. Short wide crack on 4 is cute. P5 is incredibly awkward and insecure feeling in the beginning, a real sleeper pitch. P6 let's you run to the top with downpressure.
The entire descent feels like one step further into a possible bad idea. With a seemingly high probability of having a rope get stuck pulling some of the rappels, we decided to try to keep it to the climbers' left on rap 2 and 3. This worked for us, maybe you too.
The rack may indicate it, but I didn't realize how wide the climbing was going to feel. Pitches 3-6 had loads of fist jams with the occasional chickenwing for security. Thoroughly enjoyable. Maybe one of the best parts of the route is you'll never have to do a slab move if you don't want to.
If you don't have big cams, this may not be the route for you. There didn't seem so be many options for adequately protecting the second pitch without bigguns. We took the following rack: nuts, 1 each .3-3 camalots, 0-4 tcu, #1.75-6 friends. Wished I hadn't left the extra #5 friend in the pack at the base. The first 80' of p2 the crack is >4", with only a hollow flake for a 0tcu, and crack-diving for a 2.5 friend.
This climb is a full package. Great climbing on good rock and a really pretty approach. Sure it will take you an hour, but if you look around at the boulders and trees you might not care as much. Be sure to take the SECOND drainage on the left (15min), then 3rd class up the wash until you reach a GIANT boulder blocking it off (30min). This is where you head (thrash?) uphill to the right heading for the base of the big dihedral.
First 4 pitches are fairly short leads... last pitch is 5.7 at best. 2nd pitch is kick in the pants full value roof. Anyone ever do the variation Instant ReSpray??
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