Squaretop is the formation that appears flat-topped when looking at the skyline of the west Stronghold. It is home to one of the Stronghold's best routes, Cragaholic's Dream. To approach Lower Squaretop, where Cragaholic's starts, follow the directions below.
From the parking area, take the righthand wash (the one next to the fence by the start of the path leading to the East Stronghold). Stay in the main wash, keeping an eye on Westworld dome to your left. After about half a mile, the wash curves to the northeast and heads toward Squaretop. Stay in the wash until Lower Squaretop is to your right and you can see the distinctive triangular roof on the second pitch of Cragaholic's Dream. When the climb is directly above you in the wash, head straight uphill following the path of least resistance. You will encounter some 4th class terrain while heading up the hill. If you don't make any wrong turns the approach takes about an hour. Total approach distance is just under a mile.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squaretop:
Cragaholic’s Dream is one of the nicest routes in the Stronghold, but sees relatively few ascents compared to other climbs at its grade. The climb is entirely gear protected – not a single bolt, a rarity in the Stronghold for a six-pitch climb. It is a true gem not only because of its strictly traditional nature, but also because its rock quality is outstanding. With updated approach directions and a detailed new topo, this climb should be muc...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ