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Get The Flock Out Of Here
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 69
votes
Routes in The Sheepshead
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Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct South Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Great Pig in the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Greedy Little Varmint T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poultry Emulsion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ranch Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shepherd, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13 |
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Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Scott Ayers, Steve Haire & Steve Amter (1987). Scott Ayers, Tanya Bok & Avi Steinburg |
| Page Views: | 7,830 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Apr 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This is a fun, challenging route with a variety of climbing and quality rock. You will encounter laybacks, slab climbing, a few thin face moves, and some strenuous crack moves.
To locate the route, walk about 200' uphill from the start of Ewephoria. Here you will find a clearly defined staging area next to a 30' right facing corner. The first pitch starts on the crack to the right of the corner. Three bolts are visible along the crack.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 100'): Climb the crack, passing three bolts. At the end of the crack, make a strenuous reach (5.10) to a handhold on the right and move under a roof. Move up and left to a spot where you can pull the roof (5.9). Move left a few feet to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.7, 125'): Follow the bolts up the slab to an anchor under a roof.
Pitch 3 (5.10+, 170'): Pull the roof (5.10a/b) following bolts past two ledges. The crux lies just above the first ledge. Be cautious - a combination of rope stretch and lack of visibility for your belayer could easily lead to a tweaked ankle in this spot.
Pitch 4 (5.10, 140'): This is the best pitch of the climb. Head up and left following two bolts to a short gully which narrows to a handcrack. The handcrack moves are strenuous. At the top of the handcrack traverse right underneath a roof to a bolted anchor at a small stance.
Pitch 5 (5.10+, 110'): Layback a short, difficult crack section (5.10+). The crack narrows to 1" after about 25'. At this point move left to face climbing (5.10) along a series of bolts leading to the summit.
A topo for this climb can be found here:
https://www.toofasttopos.com/free/
Photos
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