Ewephoria 

There's a typo in the description; it goes up the south side of Sheepshead. (towards the far west end of the south face)

I think Christian is turned around. Ewephoria is on the north face of Sheepshead and starts in the large descent gully between Sheepshead and Muttonhead.

Sorry I was under the impression the main face of Sheepshead (where Absinthe and Ides are) faced directly south, but I guess it's more southwest, which I guess would make the gully where Ewephoria starts northwest facing..

The easiest way to find this climb is to think of the Sheepshead as a clock, the face visible from the parking area with Absinthe, Peacemaker and Ides is roughly 6 o'clock. Ewephoria is at about 9 o'clock.

I've done this a couple times, and each time I am surprised at how slippery and technical I find the first pitch. After the first trad pitch, it's a relative cruise (except for one move off a ledge with a bolt that won't protect your ankles). Good clean fun, and the wild alternate finish is definitely recommended. The chimney is easier, but half scrambling and half chimney. It does have some bolts near the top of the chimney if you stay out of the back.

If you're not completely sure where the route starts, you can hike a little more up the trail and see the anchors from the side.

This a really fun and satisfying climb. I like that it 'summits' and that it has a lot of nice variation. That said, this is a sand bag rated at 5.7 and if you believe the 1st pitch is 5.5 then I'd like to talk to you about a land deal. I would excercise caution when recomending this 1st pitch to less experienced trad leaders. Now having said that I would still give this climb a bunch of stars and highly recommend it to anyone ready for it. The last pitch up the final head wall though harder and short is still a real grin fest.

I agree with Phil on his comment about this climb being sandbagged. Pitch one is NOT a 5.5. It is more difficult than 2, 3 & 4. I recommend 12-15 draws. On the bolted pitches, small pro and slings can be used between bolts if you are uncomfortable with a little runout. The last pitch of Too Tough to Die is a MUST! Great views - great climb!

The first pitch of this climb protects well but is harder than 5.7. The route starts up a gully thats mostly in the shade so the slab can be wet a long time after rain.

Haven't led the first pitch yet but on parts of it the rock is very water-polished, which adds to the difficulty. I'd guess at least solid 5.8 on lead.

i climbed this a few days ago and on the last pitch we climbed a bolted line that started at the base of the chimney and went up and left - clipping the last slab bolt on the Too tough to die variation. anyone else done this ending - i was curious about a consensus on the rating?

Hey Matt,

I asked Geir Hundal today and he said about 5.8.

http://www.geir.com/ewephoria.pdf

Hope you're enjoying Tucson.

Cheers

I would simply rate the climb 5.8 and recommend it. The first pitch is old awkward 5.8. The variation last pitch to the left and above the anchor is quite fun.

This is a great climb. If you finish on the last pitch of Too Tough To Die, you get five diverse quality pitches. Had as much fun on this as I did on TTTD, Absinthe, and Peacemaker.

As for grades, I'll go against the tide. I think you want to have a solid 5.9 leader in your team to put this one up safely. Just another opinion from the peanut gallery.

Must do climb.

IMHO, p1 is only 5.5 or 5.6 to the stronghold paladins of old that were climbing it as the earth cooled. That said, I call it hard 7 or even an 8 and say it protects well but would 2nd the idea to send up a solid 5.9 trad rat to lead it.

P1 placements are solid and frequent. Bring doubles of bd 2's and 1's (or equal). A #3 could be placed down low but is not required; leave that and anything bigger in the trunk.

As mentioned above, there's a thin section 1/2 way up p3 and another thin area 1/2 way through p4. All in all, 1, 3 and 4 should probably be done by 5.9 leader. But keep in mind 1-4 all take gear; 2-4 to tame some runout. Good shade up till noon on the whole route so start it early during the summer. If you start P1 before 8am during the summer, you'll have shade up to the 2nd anchor.

If you know how to lie-back the first pitch is probably no harder than 5.6 or 5.7. If you can't do lie-back probably want someone else to lead or you're going to grunt up it. Bring lots of small to medium cams for pitch one and you won't have any problem with protecting this pitch. Be sure to climb to the chicken heads above the dike before stepping across to the face. Makes the step across onto the face easier and allows better protection in the crack.

There is a new route to the left of Ewephoria (name is unknown). If you keep heading to the climber's left on the second pitch it is possible to continue following the bolts to the other route (over a small runout). To stay on Ewephoria angle straight up the rock from the 4th bolt and the belay station will be at the water stain. If you end up on this other route it is probably a 5.10 mixed and if you had trouble leading pitch one you are in for a difficult climb. Personally, I found the first pitch of Ewephoria to be just fine and I could not figure out what all the hype is about.

Geir - thanks for the spectacular topo!

Very good intro to multi-pitching. First pitch is significantly harder than the rest of the pitches - I'd probably say 5.8+. All of the run-outs are on 5.4ish terrain. TTTD finish is definitely a GREAT way to finish, with excellent exposure!

I actually think the crux of this climb is at a bolt on the third pitch just when it gets near vertical.

The beta photo of the first pitch is worth bringing along: We spent awhile looking around before deciding the the bushy gully was the actual start. In fairness, the snow piled up at the base and lack of footprints didn't help us much either.

My gear list: 1 ea, blue TCU, .5 and .75 camalot, 2.5 friend, 2 ea 1 and 2 camalot, 2 pink tricams. There were many opportunities for additional placements if needed. The moves on P1 aren't hard, but they aren't terribly obvious either.

The 5.9 finish is an excellent option. Very airy as you pass the bulge and top out on the arete.

Definitely not a 5.7. I fell on the 4th pitch and I lead 10s on Lemmon.

A new topo with this climb can be downloaded by clicking the link below:

http://www.geir.com/sheepshead%20w.pdf

Enjoy!