Pitches one and two are excellent. On pitch 3 we went about 30 ft. without pro and downclimbed instead of committing to the 25 additional feet without pro. P3 is bulgy with 5.9 friction between the bulges. You can get a small, pretty bad, nut at about 30 ft with some creativity. The first 55 ft. of P3 is certainly "do not fall" territory but did not look terribly difficult.
P1 12a Follow the bolts to bolted anchor. P2 11b Follow a beautiful corner 70ish feet until you see an obvious bolt out right. Traverse and then up to bolted anchor. P3 5.9 Go a loooonggg ways on bulgy friction without any pro (50ish feet?) to the crack directly above the belay (not the one on the right). Climb it, then traverse right on hand rail to another crack where you belay. P4 5.8 Up obvious crack.
Location
Starts 60 feet left of Abra at an obvious bolt line between two big boulders at the base. The original start (10R) is on the (climber's) left boulder and then traverses right. The new start is from below the main bolt line. Double rope rappel the Abra descent.
Protection
Set of nuts including some small guys. Standard double set of cams from small to #2, with one #3 and #4. The tiniest cam in the world *might* help supplement the bad nut 30 ft. up P3.
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