The first pitch is the classic pitch and gets the stars. It is a classic layback crack in a left facing corner. Pumpy and steep for about 45 feet or so, then the angle lessens. Finish at a two bolt belay. There is a thank God rest just when you need it. The second pitch is a full rope length up a grungy 5.7 crack. It's okay but not up to the quality of the first. A double rope rap from the top of pitch one will get you to the ground if you don't like the looks of pitch 2. The second pitch ends at tied off chickenheads for a belay (hope you brought your shoulder length slings). The final pitch is best described as low-angle chickenhead hiking. From the top follow the ramp down to a slot where you'll find a two-bolt rap anchor. Make a double rope rap to the bottom.
Addendum: I just wanted to add that this past weekend, I did the Pair-a-Grins variation to this route and it is without a doubt a better way to the top than the standard 2nd pitch. It's a little run-out between bolts (thought-provoking but not unsafe) and the exposure isn't for the faint of heart. All I took for this pitch was quickdraws.
Location
This is at the far left (east) end of the Rockfellow Group as you come in from the east side approach. Look for a nice open book. See route description for descent.
Protection
Finger size pieces (Metolius tri-cams) and a couple of red camalots for the first pitch. standard rack with a handful of shoulder length slings for the second pitch. In general, Stronghold climbers can never carry enough shoulder length slings (10 is a good number).
If doing "pair a grins" finish one 60m rope will get you to the anchors at the top of forest lawn...barely with rope stretch, tie knots in the ends of the rope.
Forest Lawn is a burly 5.9 fer sure. Pair a grins was no cruise at 10c either. Two great pitches however...very memorable.
We did this route on January 27 after doing What's My Line. The weather in Tombstone was 60 and sunny. We got to the base around 1 pm. There was 4-6 inches of snow on the ground. The route was in the shade and a little cool but reasonable. A grey camalot is useful to help protect the start. We only did the first pitch due to time constraints.
The first pitch is superb. The sustained 5.9 fingerlocks, stemming, and liebacking is unbelievable. At the crux lieback section below the "rest" put in your last piece and gun it.
By brad schierer From: your imagination May 29, 2007
I didn't use a grey Camalot on the start. Instead I usually step across from the block opposite the wall, and start right in on the business.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 17, 2007
Descend by rappeling (with 1 60m rope) Pair-a-Grins and p1 of Forest Lawn with 3 rappels off 2bolt anchors (watch the rope ends.. the raps are 28meters). This returns you right to the base. (To get to the top of Pair-a-grins from Forest Lawn p2, climb up 10' of 3rd class to your right to the top of the pinnacle)
I thought the 2nd pitch of Forest Lawn was alright and definitely worth doing if you're not up for Pair-a-Grins.
By David Baltz From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Sep 20, 2008
Pair-o-Grins is the much-preferred finish and is highly recommended, but should have an "R" rating (5.9 easing to 5.6) and requires mental preparedness. I found one bolt in the 100 ft above first few protecting the crux section. A 60m rope would be real nice as I had to stretch my 50m a lot to tie off some chickenheads. We did two raps of the east face in fading light--dropping 10 feet off the end of our 50m ropes into the gully at the bottom. Again, 60m ropes would be real nice.
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Oct 16, 2008 rating: 5.9+
can also rap by climbing onto the summit block/nob just to you're right as you top out. once on top, head down the ramp to a set of metolius rap hangers. make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb.
you can also double rope rap from the metolius hangers to the first belay of forrest lawn. look out for rope snags, as there are quite a few chickenheads, flakes, nobs, and other pesky obstacles.
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