Knead Me 

FA:  Mike McEwan,, Dave Baker 1972 Type:  Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Views: 619 page views Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Closed to climbing, March 1 - June 30 MORE INFO >>> This dome, and the surrounding 1/4 mile including Rockfellow Dome, is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Closed to climbing, March 1 - June 30 MORE INFO >>> This dome, and the surrounding area is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the wide crack system to the right of Abra. An interesting route but a very strenuous day and not for those afraid of chimney and offwidth climbing.

Pitch 1: climb the chimney to a belay at the bolts (5.7 R). This is hard to protect without big stuff (and perhaps not protectable even with it) but fairly secure.

Pitch 2: grunt up the crack above (5.10a). This is a little bit of everything - stemming, OW, fist.

Pitch 3: climb up to a bolt and tension traverse left (scary!) to a ledge. The bolt really should be replaced - if it fails the fall would be very nasty. The anchors on P2 are also in bad shape.

Pitches 4-6: join Abra in the cracks below the Friendly Flake.

Protection 

A bigbro is useful to protect P1 but not necessary. P2 is mostly larger cams but nothing huge is needed. #4 camalot is probably the biggest you need.