Trad Rock is the lower and foremost of the two most prominent rocks visible from the parking area. It hosts a good number of quality routes in a variety of grades from 5.6-5.11. In spite of its name, most of the routes on this crag are clip-ups. All in all, it's a great sport crag in an unbeatable setting.
Rock quality is generally good. Watch out for nesting wasps and bees up on the rock.
Getting There
From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road another two miles north. Make a final right turn on a dirt road that leads to a circular parking area. The crags are visible from the road.
A good trail leads across the drainage below the parking area, and uphill to the crags.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trad Rock:
Yes, watch the wasps. I got stung on the bottom of my foot- crawled between my sandal and foot, ouch! Good thing you can't use your feet to climb here, just the edges. Haha! "Slabby, smeary fun"
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