BETA PHOTO: The two pitch Donamatrix follows the water stain
Description
This is a water streak, holds are fairly stable but climb softly anyways. Pebbles rain down from the top of the Headwall and continue down eventually. Mostly knobs and edges in the matrix make for good holds. Stay low in the traverse to the left on the first pitch to keep the bolt above you. Use a long sling.
Location
To find route, walk south about 200yds along trail at base of Headwall til you come to alcove and shallow dihedral with a line of bolts up a waterstreak. From Echo Canyon parking lot, look along headwall to tallest portion, a guano-covered pinnacle marks the left side of the climb.
Protection
Many bolts, some 1/2" x 7" with a two bolt anchor first pitch; Rap hangers on left for last pitch.
One of the belay rappel bolts on top of pitch two is starting to come loose. All three in my party rapped on it and it held fine but I wouldn't trust it by itself. The other bolt is still solid. Other then that it's a great route.
Cool climb. More stemming than you would expect. Climb small notches and nubbins going in all directions making this a thoughtful 5.9. I don't think all the loose stuff has come off yet so climb carefully.
By Shiloh From: Phoenix, AZ Aug 25, 2008 rating: 5.8
As of yesterday...8/24 I dont know that I would trust either of those bolts...The loose one is pretty loose now and the other seems to be taking the brunt ... be careful and access the situation for yourself. But the rap for the Spicebox is a hop skip and a jump away...
I haven't done this in a couple of years and so I went back to see what the problem with the bolts was. Maybe someone fixed a suspect bolt, they seemed the same to me. None of the anchors was loose, they were in the condition I left them in. If you have some specific worry, send me an email.
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