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Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Ariel 
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What, What? 
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Ariel 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: S. Woodruff & S. Kent, 1975
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007
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Dave moves into the leftward traversing section.
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a climb on mostly good rock and good holds but one that suffers for lichen and runouts. If it were to get a few good cleanings or a hundred ascents, it would be worthy of a might higher quality rating, but as is, its potential is unrealized.

    From the small juniper, climb up and right (long reach) to a large flake, throw on a 3' sling, then go right to get established on top of it (crux, 5.8). Break hard left along a horizontal band below a bulge, passing some cam placements along the way, for perhaps 10 meters, until the bulge has ended, then climb directly up on jugs, tending left here and there when necessary to avoid difficulty. The protection is scarce at best, but the climbing mellow. Beware of the potential of slipping in the crisp lichen underhand or foot.


    Location 

    Approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach a seat on the ledge beside a tiny juniper tree. Ariel starts up and right onto a flake . It might be best to toss down rope from there and get a belay from the ground.


    Protection 

    A few cams to 3.5" and a few stoppers. Some long runners.



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