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GPS: 38.5874, -107.71815
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 3, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

This is a beautiful section of the North Rim which includes some terrific, if terrifying, routes of somewhat shorter length. This is a section for the good routefinder who does not fear disjointed rock at times. It is right of Painted Wall and left of SOB Gully.

L->R:

A. Porcelain Arete, IV 9+, 9p, 1800', gear.

B. Suffer Pony at the Disco, IV 10, 11p, 1900', gear.
C. Sistine Reality, IV 11+ R, 11p, 1700', gear.
D. Diagonal Will, V 11 X, 18p, 1900', gear.
E. Pathfinder, V 10+ R, 13p, gear.
F. Blacksmiths, IV 12, 11p, 1500', gear.
G. Prussian Arete, IV 10, 9p, 1000', gear.
H. Russian Arete, IV 9+, 6p, 800', gear.
I. 
Ghost Dancer Arete, III 10+, 5p, 500' + 800', gear.
J. The Life Aquatic, III 11-, 5p, 700', gear & bolts.
K. Yellow Submarine, III 10, 6p, 920', gear & pins.
L. The World According to Guppy, III 10, 5p, 800', gear.
M. Lauren's Arete, III 9 R, gear.
N. Road Head, III 10, 6p, 700', gear.

Getting There Suggest change

From the campground on the North Rim, descend the SOB Gully almost to the river. Look for 2 gullies on the downstream side.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Aretes Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Aretes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 35
Lauren's Arete
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 118
Russian Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 24
Ghost Dancer Arete
Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
 4
The Ripe Stuff
Trad 9 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 11
Sistine Reality
Trad 11 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 6
Cheap Hooker
Trad 10 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 14
Blacksmiths
Trad 11 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lauren's Arete
 35
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Russian Arete
 118
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Ghost Dancer Arete
 24
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
The Ripe Stuff
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R Trad 9 pitches
Sistine Reality
 11
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 11 pitches
Cheap Hooker
 6
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad 10 pitches
Blacksmiths
 14
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 11 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Aretes »

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