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Routes in The Goose
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Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Big Bruce S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face / Goose T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Skein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wild Horses T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | R. Rossiter, 1988, solo |
| Page Views: | 944 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Sep 20, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
On the W face of the Goose are routes Arete, Deserted Cities of the Heart, & Love's Labor Lost. Hike up and around the Goose Eggs from the Fern Canyon trail. Find a fainter path skirting the W sides of the Goose Eggs and the Goose. You'll come upon the S face with Cub, Sweet & Innocent, Raging Bull this way. Observe potential wildlife closures.
On the R side of the face, is a nice line near an arête linking weakness and face features. Find the start with shared with Deserted Cities of the Heart, climb 5.8 briefly past 2 bolts, traverse R on easy ground to the arête, gain a break in the face with a tree. Sling the tree, find easy moves over the roof, find cam placements in the horizontal cracks on the face, gain another smaller break with a #2 Camalot placement at the arête. Here, you must choose L or R. Going L may gain a layback to a potential crack feature; however, the topo indicates the line is R. Going R looks like a long way to protectable features with a smoother face that looks harder than the topo's 5.5. You will find a small flake for a black Alien at a rest. A short distance further, you'll find a #3 Camalot in a crack. At the top is a 3 bolt anchor. 140 ft. Rap either 140ft to W or (less recommended: difficult pull, flakes) rap 165' to S (about 100' is free rappel). 1.4 stars.
On the R side of the face, is a nice line near an arête linking weakness and face features. Find the start with shared with Deserted Cities of the Heart, climb 5.8 briefly past 2 bolts, traverse R on easy ground to the arête, gain a break in the face with a tree. Sling the tree, find easy moves over the roof, find cam placements in the horizontal cracks on the face, gain another smaller break with a #2 Camalot placement at the arête. Here, you must choose L or R. Going L may gain a layback to a potential crack feature; however, the topo indicates the line is R. Going R looks like a long way to protectable features with a smoother face that looks harder than the topo's 5.5. You will find a small flake for a black Alien at a rest. A short distance further, you'll find a #3 Camalot in a crack. At the top is a 3 bolt anchor. 140 ft. Rap either 140ft to W or (less recommended: difficult pull, flakes) rap 165' to S (about 100' is free rappel). 1.4 stars.
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