Arete  5.8 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  R. Rossiter, 1988, solo Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Sep 21, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

On the W face of the Goose are routes Arete, Deserted Cities of the Heart, & Love's Labor Lost. Hike up and around the Goose Eggs from the Fern Canyon trail. Find a fainter path skirting the W sides of the Goose Eggs and the Goose. You'll come upon the S face with Cub, Sweet & Innocent, Raging Bull this way. Observe potential wildlife closures.

On the R side of the face, is a nice line near an arête linking weakness and face features. Find the start with shared with Deserted Cities of the Heart, climb 5.8 briefly past 2 bolts, traverse R on easy ground to the arête, gain a break in the face with a tree. Sling the tree, find easy moves over the roof, find cam placements in the horizontal cracks on the face, gain another smaller break with a #2 Camalot placement at the arête. Here, you must choose L or R. Going L may gain a layback to a potential crack feature; however, the topo indicates the line is R. Going R looks like a long way to protectable features with a smoother face that looks harder than the topo's 5.5. You will find a small flake for a black Alien at a rest. A short distance further, you'll find a #3 Camalot in a crack. At the top is a 3 bolt anchor. 140 ft. Rap either 140ft to W or (less recommended: difficult pull, flakes) rap 165' to S (about 100' is free rappel). 1.4 stars.

Protection 

Black Alien to #3 Camalot useful.