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 ADVANCED
The Goose
Select Route:
Arete 
Batman 
Deserted Cities of the Heart 
Duck, Duck, Goose 
East Face / Goose 
Loosey Goosey 
Love's Labor Lost 
Mother Goose 
Raging Bull (aka Cub) 
South Arete 
South Face 
Sweet and Innocent 

Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, 1988, solo
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 21, 2003
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  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    On the W face of the Goose are routes Arete, Deserted Cities of the Heart, & Love's Labor Lost. Hike up and around the Goose Eggs from the Fern Canyon trail. Find a fainter path skirting the W sides of the Goose Eggs and the Goose. You'll come upon the S face with Cub, Sweet & Innocent, Raging Bull this way. Observe potential wildlife closures.

    On the R side of the face, is a nice line near an arÍte linking weakness and face features. Find the start with shared with Deserted Cities of the Heart, climb 5.8 briefly past 2 bolts, traverse R on easy ground to the arÍte, gain a break in the face with a tree. Sling the tree, find easy moves over the roof, find cam placements in the horizontal cracks on the face, gain another smaller break with a #2 Camalot placement at the arÍte. Here, you must choose L or R. Going L may gain a layback to a potential crack feature; however, the topo indicates the line is R. Going R looks like a long way to protectable features with a smoother face that looks harder than the topo's 5.5. You will find a small flake for a black Alien at a rest. A short distance further, you'll find a #3 Camalot in a crack. At the top is a 3 bolt anchor. 140 ft. Rap either 140ft to W or (less recommended: difficult pull, flakes) rap 165' to S (about 100' is free rappel). 1.4 stars.


    Protection 

    Black Alien to #3 Camalot useful.



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