Arete Route  5.11a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Aidan Maguire on Oct 22, 2011 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Begins Up Fear of flying and at about 45 feet pulls out onto face around right. Pulls small roof and then trends up and right to end P1 at Stepping Stone anchor.
P2 works left and up to gain arete, then continues up and left crossing Neckless Traverse and up past small roof with piton. Left under second roof and around left side of arete into 15 feet of exposed crack before coming back around right to finish up slabs to old 2 bolt anchor. Better anchor is all the way on top.
Alternate direct start: Start up direct version of Fear of flying with hard to find gear and then past 2 bolts to join the original Arete route at ~ 45 feet. (11c).
This is one of the very best, longest and least known routes at the Spires

Location 

The arete/face to the right of Fear of Flying. On top of spire is a rap anchor with chains

Protection 

Standard Rack and bolts