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This is a great trad line that runs a sweet arete to a slabby finish. It has solid climbing with thin gear.
Begin the route at the base of the chimney and trend out on the arete. A single 60m rope will do, 2 raps get you down via fixed anchors.
Take the usual trail to the lower slab of the left wall, and continue to trend right under the wall, heading up into the large chimney.
Small to medium cams and a bunch of small nuts/RPs. There is an anchor 50' below the finish for a route right, but run the natural seam up higher to the true finish at the upper anchors.
By D. Snyder
From: Golden, CO
May 26, 2014
Some supreme dork has bolted this long established TRAD route! Damn shame!
By Rob Griz
Sep 16, 2014
What an ass-wipe. There are plenty of sport lines up there that don't protect. Damn shame.