Arete Butler  5.9+

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Paul Sloan - 1992 Submitted By:  saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Unless you're doing the 11a variation (strictly climbing the arete and face), the name is a little misleading; Arete Butler is more of a stemming chimney climb. An interesting and exposed climb that can be done as a sort of second pitch to Mammy; or, if you have a 70-meter rope, can be done as one long pitch from ground level.

Starting on Mammy or one of its neighboring routes, topout on the ledge and move up to a two-bolt belay anchor on the wall. Climb the orange arete, stemming or chimneying to the wall on the right, with awkward moves to clip the bolts on the face. After reaching the final bolt, move out left and finish on the overhanging face to the anchors.

As noted above, the 5.11a variation is to climb the arete without stemming/chimneying the opposite wall.

Location 

Jimmywood section; starts on the ledge directly above Mammy.

Protection 

5-6 bolts, bolted anchors.