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Arete Butler 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles, 1986
Page Views: 1,267
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Keith approaching the crux of Arete Butler 5.10a

Description 

This fun climb starts with some thin climbing up to a ledge. Leave the ledge on the right and head up the well protected slab, aiming for the flake and easier climbing above.

An airy sequence, possible to protect by threading a long sling, to reach the belay at the top finishes off a good climb.

Location 

Located just to the right of the Royal Arches Chimney

Protection 

Bolts on the slab for the crux, cam for the flake. Slings useful near the top.


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By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 7, 2010

The FA was done by George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles in 1986. Though not a classic, the route is quite enjoyable on typical Royal Arches little edges and smears.
By Floyd Hayes
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

This climb was harder than I thought it would be. The first 40' consists of sustained 5.10 slab moves (much harder than 5.10a in my opinion), with the exception of an easy mantel. The lower half of the 5.6 crack is stellar but the upper half is rotten with marginal protection, though fortunately easy. The final 10' is a tricky, nearly holdless 5.8 trough, but fortunately it is well protected by a solid 1" cam at its base (I apparently overlooked the slot for threading a sling), and is the first bomber protection for about 40'. The hanging belay is miserable.
By Maurice Chaunders
Nov 27, 2012

I don't remember a hanging belay, or any misery. It's kinda of slabby and I think you can just sorta lean/sit. A fun climb, thin on the face. Oh, and hard.