Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Royal Arches
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1096 
Age of Industry 
Arches Terrace  
Arches Terrace Direct 
Arete Butler 
Astro Spam 
Double Trouble 
Endorphine 
Face Card 
Fine Line 
Firefingers 
Greasy but Groovy 
Hershey Highway 
Krovy Rookers 
Maxine's Wall 
Mid-Life Crisis 
Peruvian Flake 
Poker Face 
Royal Arches 
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack 
Royal Flush 
Royal Perogative 
Rupto Pac 
Serenity Crack 
Shaky Flakes 
Sons of Yesterday 
Super Slide 
Surf Nazi 
Surplus Cheaper Hands 
Trial By Fire 
Unnamed 5.3 
Unnamed Chimney 
Violent Bear It Away, The 
Y Crack 

Arete Butler 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles, 1986
Page Views: 1,196
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Keith approaching the crux of Arete Butler 5.10a
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun climb starts with some thin climbing up to a ledge. Leave the ledge on the right and head up the well protected slab, aiming for the flake and easier climbing above.

An airy sequence, possible to protect by threading a long sling, to reach the belay at the top finishes off a good climb.


Location 

Located just to the right of the Royal Arches Chimney


Protection 

Bolts on the slab for the crux, cam for the flake. Slings useful near the top.



Comments on Arete Butler Add Comment
Show which comments
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 7, 2010

The FA was done by George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles in 1986. Though not a classic, the route is quite enjoyable on typical Royal Arches little edges and smears.

By Floyd Hayes
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

This climb was harder than I thought it would be. The first 40' consists of sustained 5.10 slab moves (much harder than 5.10a in my opinion), with the exception of an easy mantel. The lower half of the 5.6 crack is stellar but the upper half is rotten with marginal protection, though fortunately easy. The final 10' is a tricky, nearly holdless 5.8 trough, but fortunately it is well protected by a solid 1" cam at its base (I apparently overlooked the slot for threading a sling), and is the first bomber protection for about 40'. The hanging belay is miserable.

By Maurice Chaunders
Nov 27, 2012

I don't remember a hanging belay, or any misery. It's kinda of slabby and I think you can just sorta lean/sit. A fun climb, thin on the face. Oh, and hard.