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Arete Bandit 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rossiter
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 21, 2013
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Arete Bandit is a three star pitch when linked with the 1st pitch of Rincon or Center Route. The hanging belay at the top of Center Route is uncomfortable, and you risk falling on your belayer at the crux.

P1: (70 feet) Climb either Center Route (5.11a) or the Concentric variation to Rincon (5.10c).

P2: (80 feet) Follow the thin crack about 2 ft left of the RF dihedral on Center Route's 2nd pitch. You will pass a pin and a old bolt. Near the top and after the bolt, run it out about 12-15 feet on 5.8 to a two bolt anchor with slings. It is very easy to step right on Center Route for gear and rests in a number of locations. If you stay with the thin crack, it is probably closer to hard 5.10.

Continue up Center Route or rap twice to the ground.


Location 

Arete Bandit follows the thin crack and arete just to the left of P2 of the Center Route.


Protection 

Mostly thin gear to #0.75 Camalot, 1 pin, and 1 old bolt.



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