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Arete Bandit is a three star pitch when linked with the 1st pitch of Rincon
or Center Route
. The hanging belay at the top of Center Route
is uncomfortable, and you risk falling on your belayer at the crux.
P1: (70 feet) Climb either Center Route
(5.11a) or the Concentric variation to Rincon
P2: (80 feet) Follow the thin crack about 2 ft left of the RF dihedral on Center Route's
2nd pitch. You will pass a pin and a old bolt. Near the top and after the bolt, run it out about 12-15 feet on 5.8 to a two bolt anchor with slings. It is very easy to step right on Center Route
for gear and rests in a number of locations. If you stay with the thin crack, it is probably closer to hard 5.10.
Continue up Center Route
or rap twice to the ground.
Arete Bandit follows the thin crack and arete just to the left of P2 of the Center Route
Mostly thin gear to #0.75 Camalot, 1 pin, and 1 old bolt.