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|Location:||45.3583, -121.4761 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||Peter Franzen, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Peter Franzen on Jun 19, 2007|
|looking for ride from van. / climbing partners in squamish 10/24-26||sasha h||31 mins ago|
|re: Smith Rock Climb Partner TODAY Oct 21||Daniel Bookless||2 hours ago|
|Climbing Partner Eugene/Corvalis/Portland||Alex Randolph||3 hours ago|
|re: Climbing Seattle area||sean.king11||4 hours ago|
|Driving to Utah Mid Nov to climb||DanielG||7 hours ago|
|Smith Rock - Nov 19th - 21st||cinndesigner||2 days ago|
|Lost flashlight Bridge Creek Leavenworth||dylanfllr||2 days ago|
|re: Climbing OR, Feb/Mar 2015||bentobox||3 days ago|
|Comments on Area 51||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jenn B
Jul 21, 2014
|The rap chain at the top of Mars has a metal spur inside. Do NOT run your rope through the right bottom link at the top.|
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 20, 2007
|Seriously? I had no problem asking for directions to it, and there were almost a dozen other people there on Saturday.|
Jun 23, 2007
|Beautiful but quite chossy. I pulled a microwave-sized hold off of one of the better routes with little effort and pulled more rock off of the crux bulge of another "3 alien head" rated route. There's some fun stuff, but IMO not worthy of a long drive.|
Jun 25, 2007
I have been climing at A51 for about 8 years now. Most route anchors can NOT be reached from the top - and should NOT be given the fragile dry soils and plant life. So you really need to be able to lead 5.10. And 1/3 of the routes are mixed gear/bolts, so bring a rack. And bring a helmet - folks ain't kidding about the choss! And don't snub the locals when you are out there, a hello would at least be nice....
Edit to Add: Peter, I was hoping you would take my picture last Saturday when I was climbing the dirty chimney!
By pdx climber
Jul 11, 2007
Finally checked it out. Disappointing.... Let's do the math, from Portland:
20 minutes to the ozone (with better rock, and lots more moderates than A51)
2 hrs, 20 minutes to A51
2 hrs, 40 minutes to Smith.
Why folks from Portland would go there is beyond me, I won't be back...
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 13, 2007
|I set up 4 different TRs when I was out there. Sorry if what I posted was misleading.|
By elmo mecsko
From: Lyle, Washington
Jan 28, 2008
It always blows me away to hear climbers rant about an area when they have nothing positive to say. It would be nice for people to really climb at an area a few times before making statements like "this place sucks" and "Why folks from Portland would go there is beyond me". Where would our sport be if not for the hard working folks who take the time to find new areas and put up new routes; show some respect to those who strive to make our sport better. If you do not like something about an area find a respectful way to post your concern.
As far as Area 51 is concerned, it is not my favorite crag, but it would be well worth the drive just to hike thru a very unique and beautiful ecosystem, as well as a good opportunity to meet some new climbers... plus there are some excellent routes that are well worth climbing. I have been climbing there for 7 years now and still find enjoyable routes that challenge me.
Thanks for letting me Rant! (and thanks for all the new routes over the last few years everyone!)
By Steve Wolford
Aug 21, 2009
|Area 51 Rocks! There are some sweet climbs here as well as some mungy ones. But because there are so many, you can be picky. The Mothership Wall is great hard sport climbing. There are many other hard clean lines. Well worth a few visits. Enjoy the solitude!|
Dec 7, 2009
By Chris Kuttruff
Aug 4, 2012
elmo, thanks for your comment. Individuals who clean and establish routes (especially in a climate such as Oregon's) work balls hard to provide a safe, enjoyable, environment for the climbing community.
Here are just a few things that go into this:
- Find out about an area (either from friends or exploring)
- read up on access issues, consult other first ascensionists
- "discover" some kind of trail (which often entails clearing space, coming into contact with poison oak, ticks, or whatever other local hazards are about)
- trundle dangerously loose rock
- remove sheets of moss, mud and dirt over a surface area that would make your head spin and your arms burn like they've never hurt while actually climbing
- negotiate a delicate ethical balance when deciding what is naturally protectable, and which bolts, if any, will be necessary to keep others safe
- make sure to use proper equipment (keeping in mind corrosion interaction between differing metals, rain exposure and eventual rusting of non-stainless equipment)
- mock out every move and consider people much shorter than you when placing any actual bolts
- use a 400+ dollar rotary drill, brush/blow out all the rock dust
- pound in a 3 dollar stainless bolt attached to another 3 dollar stainless hangar
- apply lock tight sealant to the bolt threads and torque the nut down to manufacturer's specs
- etc. etc.
Sorry if any of this sounded like a rant; it's not meant to be. Route developers enjoy the hell out of what they do and are happy to spend the money/time to do it. People should just try to understand a bit about the investment and how their comments might be received
On a side note, Area51 is a kickass crag. there are some beautiful climbs (every one I got on the other day was quite enjoyable and expect to go back there often). There is a great amount of variety, and the texture is a refreshing contrast to the smooth basalt you'd find at broughton or the andesite at ozone. Anyways, was well worth the drive