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Routes in Eagle Plume Tower
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Ardbeg, Vaca & Beyond T A3- |
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Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Crockpot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ |
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Milk Crates From Hell T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A3 R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Chip Wilson, Crusher Bartlett, Feb 2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,569 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Feb 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pretty good climb up the sunny south-southwest arete of the tower. A good midwinter route. Four pitches, not a single free move, not a single aid bolt.
Start on right end of southwest face, just left of painted white graffito.
1. Follow crack system up into right-facing corner. Beware death block 15 feet up; rock improves higher. Belay at two bolts and large ledge (A1+, 90)
2. Work up cracks in fractured rock, above the bolts. Thirty feet up, reach better rock, a ledge and enter the large, easy-angled dihedral. Up this to the roof. Traverse left, thin, to a small ledge and two bolts. Belay (A2+, 90).
3. The money pitch, sustained, steep. Climb to two small dihedrals above. The left one features a crack that keeps going up the face all the way to the overhang 70 feet above. It's mostly splitter, but surrounding rock is kinda soft and sometimes broken. At the roof, jog left to a steep crack that leads to a two-bolt belay (A3-, 90)
4. Ascend brief rubble to a good Knifeblade/Toucan crack in, all of a sudden, excellent rock; romp to the top and a natural thread belay (A1, 70).
Start on right end of southwest face, just left of painted white graffito.
1. Follow crack system up into right-facing corner. Beware death block 15 feet up; rock improves higher. Belay at two bolts and large ledge (A1+, 90)
2. Work up cracks in fractured rock, above the bolts. Thirty feet up, reach better rock, a ledge and enter the large, easy-angled dihedral. Up this to the roof. Traverse left, thin, to a small ledge and two bolts. Belay (A2+, 90).
3. The money pitch, sustained, steep. Climb to two small dihedrals above. The left one features a crack that keeps going up the face all the way to the overhang 70 feet above. It's mostly splitter, but surrounding rock is kinda soft and sometimes broken. At the roof, jog left to a steep crack that leads to a two-bolt belay (A3-, 90)
4. Ascend brief rubble to a good Knifeblade/Toucan crack in, all of a sudden, excellent rock; romp to the top and a natural thread belay (A1, 70).
Location
The sunny south-southwest arete of Eagle Feather Tower. Look for the obvious white painted graffiti, start just left.
Descent: rap 70 feet from the thread to the top of pitch 3. Rap 90 down pitch 3. Rap 180 to the ground. Note: Be sure to leave a rope fixed on pitch 3-important!
Descent: rap 70 feet from the thread to the top of pitch 3. Rap 90 down pitch 3. Rap 180 to the ground. Note: Be sure to leave a rope fixed on pitch 3-important!
Protection
Cams, 2-3 each from Green Alien to #4 Friend. One each to #5 Camalot.
Pitons: 1 small Tomahawk, 1 small Toucan, 1 large BD Pecker, 6 large Toucans, 4 Bugaboos, 5 LAs, 4 Leeper Z-pins, 2 Baby Angles, 3 Standard Angle, 1 BD Spectre
Selection of nuts from RPs to large.
Hooks.
Descent: rap 70 feet from the thread to the top of pitch 3. Rap 90 down pitch 3. Rap 180 to the ground. Note: Be sure to leave a rope fixed on pitch 3-important!
Pitons: 1 small Tomahawk, 1 small Toucan, 1 large BD Pecker, 6 large Toucans, 4 Bugaboos, 5 LAs, 4 Leeper Z-pins, 2 Baby Angles, 3 Standard Angle, 1 BD Spectre
Selection of nuts from RPs to large.
Hooks.
Descent: rap 70 feet from the thread to the top of pitch 3. Rap 90 down pitch 3. Rap 180 to the ground. Note: Be sure to leave a rope fixed on pitch 3-important!
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