Arcy Farcy 

This climb is fairly continuous at its grade, and many will find themselves a bit more wanting of protection than is currently equipped on this route (myself included!).

TR'd this one but there's juuust enough there to hold you to the rock. Man, I love slab! Awesome climb.

I agree with Bill.....sweet slab climb. TR'd this first then lead it.

This is one of those climbs where if your face chops are up to date, the pro will feel adequate. I haven't done it in years but some now consider it .11a given that many of the small flakes have fallen off over the years. The first clip has gotten increasingly difficult for that reason. A yellow TCU lower down makes for some nice insurance.

BTW, Darrel Hensel solos this. (!)

During my early days in the Tahquitz/Suicide area I did this route several times. It was a guidebook .10c , but when "sticky rubber" became the rage , I seem to recall a loose consensus that the crux deserved a downgrade. Interesting that it's getting harder again.

First time I ever tried this was on a hot day, big mistake! I could feel my shoes just oozing off the slab whenever I stopped - ended up bailing between the first two bolts and went and looked for a shady climb (which turned out to be my first experience of Hot Buttered Rump).

That's funny Chris - I can well imagine oozing on those tiny flakes. Back in the day, Mike led this route wearing Robbins Blue Boots that were more like hiking boots than kletterschuhe. I was still using Kronhoffers with hard ribbed soles sized 2 or more sizes small. Everything was edge, edge, edge, no friction allowed :) Note Mike's name is spelled incorrectly above; it's Kaeser (pronounced kay-zer).

Good story Phil - I'm thinking tricouni nails or Koflachs would work great.