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Arc'Teryx Harnesses
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By Jim Reynolds
Apr 9, 2011
THe Knows of Al Kepiten
Just been looking at a few of the Arc'Teryx Harnesses including the R275, R320 and the R300... Just wondering if anyone has any opinions on them. I'm just looking for a nice trad harness and imao Arc'teryx is always the best...

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By beachplus4
From So San Francisco
Apr 9, 2011
The mighty Hutch, my 120lb lab.
They rock! I have the red one and it is great. Very comfortable and very light. Sometimes I will forget i'm wearing it. Been trad climbing in it for 6 monoths now, maybe 150 pitches. Still looks in great shape. I would say if u dont mind spending a bill grab it up, but it is kinda pricey!!!!!

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 9, 2011
OTL
Jim Reynolds wrote:
Just been looking at a few of the Arc'Teryx Harnesses including the R275, R320 and the R300... Just wondering if anyone has any opinions on them. I'm just looking for a nice trad harness and imao Arc'teryx is always the best...


backcountrygear.com/catalog/cl...

half off 2010's
limited sizes, though. I picked up a CAMP Jasper for my brother at a great price, though.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Apr 9, 2011
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012
if you rack gear on your harness they suck, there isn't enough support for the gearloops and the webbing begins to collapse. for sportclimbing though, or climbs where you're not carrying anything on the harness itself they kick ass. not worth the price though in my opinion. cost twice as much as any other harness with limited benefits.

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By Smokemonkey
Apr 9, 2011
spot fire city
I have the alpine one, not sure model number. I have climbed once in gym and one multiple pitch trad. I really like it for both. All my previous harnesses have been more padded alpine style so I was surprised with the comfort and fit. Really like the light weight and adjustability. Racked runners/biners on it with no issues. Expensive but IMO worth it...

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By Mark Cushman
From Cumming, GA
Apr 9, 2011
Profiley Styley
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
if you rack gear on your harness they suck

I rack all my gear on my harness and haven't had a problem ever with the R320. I think the gear loops on these harnesses are pretty much the bee's knees.

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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 9, 2011
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.
I like mine. It's really nice that I can fold it up and put it in my pocket if I have to (I don't know why). It's the lightest harness I have ever used. In general it is fairly comfortable. I do think the lack of padding makes it uncomfortable for hanging around in for a long time (longer than 30 min.) so not an aid climbing harness or for climbs with a lot of hanging belays. I also wish the harness loops didn't hang as long and had a different style so things hung more towards my rear. I find myself pushing gear out of the way a lot so I can see my feet. Other than that very nicely made.

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By bearbreeder
Apr 11, 2011
my complaint other than the price is that the drop seat wears out very quickly i find

unless you get it on sale, id buy it at rei so that you can swap it anytime

other than that its great ... note that quite a few companies are coming out with low profile harnesses for a lot less

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Apr 11, 2011
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
So i have owned the trad version for three years. I wore through the bottom tie in point to the orange indicator in three years .I've put some great mileage on aid and free. Thats the only dissapointing thing i can say about it. I just recently went and hung in a bunch of harnesses and this thin is still by far the most comfy one out there on the market for me. Will invest in the new version once it goes on sale to replace my old one.

T

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By Mark Cushman
From Cumming, GA
Apr 11, 2011
Profiley Styley
jmeizis wrote:
I also wish the harness loops didn't hang as long and had a different style so things hung more towards my rear. I find myself pushing gear out of the way a lot so I can see my feet.

The gear loops are reversable. You can take the plastic bottom part off, rotate it and re-install and the gear will hang towards the back.

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By Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Apr 11, 2011
Agreed with the general sentiment. I'm on my second and they are great. The elastic does wear out quickly, but when I contacted Arc'teryx about it, they just sent me a new one. Well worth the high price!

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By jarthur
From Westminster, CO
Apr 11, 2011
My dogs got ups yo!
I had the R300 and the bottom belay loop blew out in less than 3 months. I climb about an average of 3-4 days a week. When I say blew out I mean the webbing was worn through exposing the indicator. I'm not sure how much this compromised the integrity of the harness, but it didn't give me a warm fuzzy so I eventually got rid of it. Was it comfortable for sport climbing? Heck yeah! It was the most comfortable harness I've ever worn, but for $150 I went back to the $75 harness and I still have worn my belay loop out since switching back.

My suggestion is that if you really want one goto REI. When the belay loop blows out (assuming they haven't fixed this problem) you won't have to dick around with the hassle of sending it back to Arc'Teryx when you can just drop by your local REI.

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Apr 11, 2011
jarthur wrote:
I had the R300 and the bottom belay loop blew out in less than 3 months. I climb about an average of 3-4 days a week. When I say blew out I mean the webbing was worn through exposing the indicator. I'm not sure how much this compromised the integrity of the harness, but it didn't give me a warm fuzzy so I eventually got rid of it. Was it comfortable for sport climbing? Heck yeah! It was the most comfortable harness I've ever worn, but for $150 I went back to the $75 harness and I still have worn my belay loop out since switching back. My suggestion is that if you really want one goto REI. When the belay loop blows out (assuming they haven't fixed this problem) you won't have to dick around with the hassle of sending it back to Arc'Teryx when you can just drop by your local REI.

Just out of curiosity, does your other harness has the indicator as well?

BTW, non-structural haul loop means it's not a full strength haul loop, correct?

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By jarthur
From Westminster, CO
Apr 11, 2011
My dogs got ups yo!
divnamite wrote:
Just out of curiosity, does your other harness has the indicator as well? BTW, non-structural haul loop means it's not a full strength haul loop, correct?


Right now I'm using the Black Diamond Ozone. My take on it is that it's BD's alternative to the Arc'Teryx Warp design and uses a Kinetic Core Construction. I thought it had an indicator when I first bought it, but I may be mistaken. If it does then it's not showing. It's not as comfortable for me as the R300, but it's not that much different.

Why do you ask about a non-structural haul loop? Because I haven't mentioned this at all. Is this a separate issue?

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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Apr 11, 2011
Viking helmet cover, yep.
I have the R320 (have had it for approx 8mths now)

I was hesitant at first to shell out $150, but I'm more than happy that I did. It's super-comfortable (i've used it for sport, trad, ice, aid, and rope-soloing), very lightweight, gear loops are great, etc.

My only complaint is the haul loop - they tacked on a silly little plastic ring that's not even close to a rated strength. Kinda dumb considering they could've just beefed up the existing cloth that holds the little plastic ring, and had a stronger and more useful haul loop in the end.

Overall though, that's a small complaint on an otherwise outstanding harness!

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By Chance Copeland
From Austin, TX
Apr 11, 2011
I am an R320 owner as well.

Just wanted to throw in something regarding people saying "Buy it at REI for possible durability issues". Arc'teryx harnesses come with lifetime replacement. If anything on the harness wears out, Arc'teryx will replace the entire harness for free. (Max alluded to this I guess.) I'd suggest finding the best deal possible and let Arc'teryx take care of you instead of the retailer.

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Apr 11, 2011
jarthur wrote:
Right now I'm using the Black Diamond Ozone. My take on it is that it's BD's alternative to the Arc'Teryx Warp design and uses a Kinetic Core Construction. I thought it had an indicator when I first bought it, but I may be mistaken. If it does then it's not showing. It's not as comfortable for me as the R300, but it's not that much different. Why do you ask about a non-structural haul loop? Because I haven't mentioned this at all. Is this a separate issue?

Never mind. Ozone and R300 are different animals.

Haul loop is just a general question for Arcteryx harness. I never understand why they never made it a full strength, even on its bigwall harness.

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By jarthur
From Westminster, CO
Apr 11, 2011
My dogs got ups yo!
Chance Copeland wrote:
I am an R320 owner as well. Just wanted to throw in something regarding people saying "Buy it at REI for possible durability issues". Arc'teryx harnesses come with lifetime replacement. If anything on the harness wears out, Arc'teryx will replace the entire harness for free. (Max alluded to this I guess.) I'd suggest finding the best deal possible and let Arc'teryx take care of you instead of the retailer.

You could do that, but when my wife called Arc'Teryx about this I would have had to send it to Canada, get an RMA code, and all those other hoops involved as opposed to driving 5 miles in any direction to get it replaced in Westminster.

On another note why try the same harness that I'll have to send back later when there are other options?

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By bearbreeder
Apr 11, 2011
Chance Copeland wrote:
I am an R320 owner as well. Just wanted to throw in something regarding people saying "Buy it at REI for possible durability issues". Arc'teryx harnesses come with lifetime replacement. If anything on the harness wears out, Arc'teryx will replace the entire harness for free. (Max alluded to this I guess.) I'd suggest finding the best deal possible and let Arc'teryx take care of you instead of the retailer.



chance ,,,, i live in vancouver bc, not too far from the dead bird service centre ... and it took a week or so for dead bird to get back to me with a return authorization number ...

by that time i had already taken it back to MEC (local rei type store) and they had already given me a credit on the spot in 1 day ...

maybe some people wouldnt mind not climbing for a week in addition to the week or more itll take to ship to them, for them to make a decision, and ship back to you ... so say 2+ weeks without a harness ... i sure do especially if its in climbing season .... or maybe some people just have like 10 harnesses ....

i dont bother dealing with dead bird anymore ... unless its on a crazy sale, i just buy from mec/rei ... and get a same day swap for any reason if anything goes wrong

as to the haul loop ... its really a chalk bag loop and wears out very quickly ...

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By shoo
Apr 11, 2011
Rock wars, Red River Gorge
divnamite wrote:
Never mind. Ozone and R300 are different animals. Haul loop is just a general question for Arcteryx harness. I never understand why they never made it a full strength, even on its bigwall harness.


Very simple: the tech behind the widened harness prevents this from being practical.

Full strength haul loops are achieved by sewing a haul loop around the main structural webbing of the harness. The construction of the arc'teryx harness webbing itself is the structural part of the harness. A loop would have to be put around the entire width of the harness. Any weight on this would cause the top to be pulled downwards and reduce possibly reduce the strength of the main waist belt.

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Apr 11, 2011
Why don't they do the same thing like the belay loop? Will it reduce comfort? Less packable, more costly?

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By shoo
Apr 12, 2011
Rock wars, Red River Gorge
divnamite wrote:
Why don't they do the same thing like the belay loop? Will it reduce comfort? Less packable, more costly?


I really don't know what you mean here. Again, the tech behind the arc'teryx harnesses prevents this from being practical.

Harnesses achieve comfort by spreading the load across a wider area. More traditional harnesses use a strip of webbing as the structural component, and spread the load via padding.

The arc'teryx harnesses work very differently. They essentially take a strip of webbing, remove the vertical fibers in parts of it, and then spread the horizontal fibers out forming a waist belt shape. This is then laminated to hold its shape. The entire waist band is structural webbing. There is no padding because the load is already spread pretty well across the harness.

The only way to make a belay loop-like attachment would be to spread out the webbing twice, with a second point of convergence dead center in the back. This would be horribly uncomfortable, expensive, and virtually impossible to size correctly.

In my opinion, full strength haul loops aren't all that useful anyway. It mostly just ends up holding my chalk bag.

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By shoo
Apr 12, 2011
Rock wars, Red River Gorge
Also, to chime in regarding the durability of these harnesses, I have owned my r-320 for 3 years. Absolutely love the thing, except for a couple issues regarding durability. This is my third harness.

Two things have worn out for me. 1) All the elastic stuff everywhere wore out waaaay too fast. Minor issue. Hopefully they'll be using a more robust elastic in the new generation. 2) Unfortunately, I have seriously troubling wear through the reinforcement of the rope attachment points on the leg loops and waist belt. 3 years of hard use, but still surprised to see something like that. I'm sending it in to arc'teryx. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll replace it.

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Apr 12, 2011
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
has anyone checked out the new big-wall harness, or the new versions of the gear harness. Wondering how the wider hip belt sits, and if they have beefed up the tie in points.

T

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By mcarizona
From Flag
Apr 12, 2011
I had to tape all my gear loops to prevent the molding from coming off.

The haul triangle is a joke

Very glad to be on the ground one day and a little on the 'out of it side', I was able to completely undo my harness on the 'never needs double back buckle' ( I now tie my ($150) tail with an overhand for fear of it failing.

Very comfortable though.

If I could go back I would buy another brand.

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By Ty Harlacker
From Albuquerque, NM
Jun 5, 2011
Silverton
Simply the most comfortable and light harness. I absolutely love mine, more than any other harness I've had.

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