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"Black Man's Jump" T 
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Arching Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Season: any
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: jcomp on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Clay finishing up on the Arching Crack

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Take the arching flake/crack that begins right of the "water streak" route. The crack curves around back toward "water streak" and peters out. At the top of the crack place you're last gear and go up through smooth slab and small pockets (really small) and intersect the 1st "water streak" belay anchors. This is an excellent and exciting route as you run out to X territory on solid gear far below! Finish with the "water streak" or another variation if you want.


    Descend either by scrambling off the top or double rope rap down water streak.


    Cams and stoppers.

    Photos of Arching Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here I am starting the traverse across the Arching...
    Here I am starting the traverse across the Arching...

    Comments on Arching Crack Add Comment
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    By Clay Studer
    From: Dallas, TX
    Oct 22, 2015
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    The original 1980 guidebook has this route at 5.7+ following the arch up, over, and back down to the ground, not finishing up the Water Streak like shown in OK Select. I think finishing up the Water Steak makes it more of a variation and less of a separate climb. It also says the route is hardest done right to left. I would tend to agree as the crux seemed to be the initial down climbing on the left side.

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