The climb begins on a left facing grassy open book which doesn't look too fun. One can climb this at 5.8 or take one of the bolted routes nearby up to the first pitche's belay bolts.
From here the climb gets fun. Four bolts protect a somewhat runout face traverse (5.7-8). The climbing here is wild and fun with the runout no longer than 40 feet at most. One traverses to a corner where easy climbing takes you to a new set of belay bolts.
From this belay runout face moves takes one to a weird flaring wide groove. Dirty pin scars provide protection for the awkward yet fun climbing up to a big tree.
From here many people rappel but the climb continues up obvious cracks and ledges for another two pitches. At the top one can rappel the Arches Terrace Direct route.
This basically a fun old school Valley route.
To find the climb go past the chimney start of Royal Arches until you find a mungy looking left open book on an 800 ft blank slabby wall. This is the start of Arches Terrace.
Standard Valley rack. Aliens are good for the pin scars. The route was recently rebolted so rapelling it is easy.
|By ryan mattock|
May 8, 2010
my lady and i climb the first pitch justthe other day. what a first great pitch!
|By S. O.|
Aug 27, 2010
Three stars for the first two pitches and only one star for the very dirty third pitch.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Apr 16, 2011
This is definitely very "old school," as it offers difficult and runout climbing almost continuously. I found the shallow, flared groove to be the most difficult pitch, but a combination of heel and to jams seemed to work well. My climb was on June 25, 1965. This was a "de riguer" climb for up-and-coming hard men BITD. I climbed in stiff-as-boards Kletter Spiders.
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 20, 2012
Good climb, definitely continue to the topout. Neat spot up there.
Second pitch traverse is probably a bit more sketchy for the second than the leader, particularly in moving from the last bolt into the ramp system - the climbing is moderate for sure, but you probably don't want to take a beginner and have them follow you on this pitch.
Mar 7, 2012
FA: Rich Calderwood, Merle Alley, 12/1957
FFA: Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, John Ohrenschall, George Sessions, 1958