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Jul 31, 2013
It's better than cable:

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2...

mountainproject.com/v/archange...

dailycamera.com/recreation-col...
chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
Joined Sep 14, 2011
22 points
Jul 31, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
A bunch of socially inept, unemployed guys claimed, for themselves, ownership over an activity they can't have any kind of physical control over... and decades later, everyone who participates in this activity is expected to conform to those so-called "ethics," to the point that a violation, even inadvertent, will result in national public humiliation.

lol

I love to climb... but oh man I can't fucking stand climbers.
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
267 points
Jul 31, 2013
Bucky
Ben Beckerich wrote:
A bunch of socially inept, unemployed guys claimed, for themselves, ownership over an activity they can't have any kind of physical control over... and decades later, everyone who participates in this activity is expected to conform to those so-called "ethics," to the point that a violation, even inadvertent, will result in national public humiliation. lol I love to climb... but oh man I can't fucking stand climbers.


Amen Ben. Most of the whining comes from people on SuperTaco. That's why I always ignored the Taco when I lived in CA because even though it was the "local" forum for my climbing areas, I couldn't stand the drivel that went on there. The funny thing is that most of the dudes screaming the loudest cannot even climb the routes they are whining about. Its almost as if bitching is its own activity.
J. Albers
From Colorado
Joined Jul 11, 2008
2,226 points
Jul 31, 2013
~Here to party~
Ben Beckerich wrote:
a violation, even inadvertent


Inadvertent? He didn't even attempt to contact the FA (according to the FA.)

If this generation isn't shamed into adherence to old ethics, what do you think the next generation is going to shamelessly do to existing routes?

Lucky for them, everyone who gives a shit now will be gone. The old ethics will be cast aside and rewritten by the new masters of the universe, and so it goes...
Sorden
From inside the Bubble, Colorado
Joined Sep 25, 2003
99 points
Jul 31, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.


You forgot a link: mountainproject.com/v/archange...
Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Joined May 23, 2009
43 points
Jul 31, 2013
funny no one caught onto the bolt added then removed and patched on englishmans home. Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2013
3 points
Jul 31, 2013
Me again!
I love how some people get their ethics jammed in their crack and then feel the need to pontificate about their meaningless their smelling problems. No one outside a turd sniffer cares about your balled up panties, and a very few climbers actually sniff turds.


For you I say don't worry. If there is any water, access, or pursuit of happiness left in ten years, I am sure your ego will remain the size and description of your balls: huge, inflamed, and red from all the posturing and comparing.

Question: If I do a line first wearing a wig and bat-wings, while hanging a ten pound bowling ball off of my ass, can I claim a first ascent and force others to the same meaningless ethic?

Now can the rest of use not concerned with ball size get on with the business of rock climbing?
J Q
Joined Mar 11, 2012
58 points
Jul 31, 2013
The amazing thing is that the FA toproped it to hell, placed bolts and pitons on rappel creating artificial run outs and then sent the 12c with preplaced gear.

Then it sat for 25 years.

.. and this is considered a fine and legitimate style by trads, Sooo much better than horrid sport climbing.
chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
Joined Sep 14, 2011
22 points
Jul 31, 2013
true story, pretty lame overall, just some washed up 80's climber who wants his claim to fame for some mediocre half assed route where gays go to sun bath. every other route is bolted on that choss pile why not bolt that? Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2013
3 points
Jul 31, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
Sorden wrote:
Inadvertent? He didn't even attempt to contact the FA (according to the FA.) If this generation isn't shamed into adherence to old ethics, what do you think the next generation is going to shamelessly do to existing routes? Lucky for them, everyone who gives a shit now will be gone. The old ethics will be cast aside and rewritten by the new masters of the universe, and so it goes...


Shamed?

If I didn't have a life, I'd go re-bolt it myself.
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
267 points
Jul 31, 2013
~Here to party~
And thus you've identified your generation. Thanks for making my point. Sorden
From inside the Bubble, Colorado
Joined Sep 25, 2003
99 points
Jul 31, 2013
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2013
3 points
Jul 31, 2013
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Joined Jul 24, 2013
3 points
Jul 31, 2013
It takes more of an ego to retro-fit a route because you want to climb it than to leave it for those who are capable of climbing it in its historical condition. There are more sport climbs in the Midwest than anyone could climb in a lifetime. Why bolt this one?

Obviously there are exceptions, but the FA ethic serves a purpose other than to stroke the FA-ers ego. It preserves climbs of all types for climbers of all types.
David Barbour
From Denver
Joined Apr 4, 2011
231 points
Jul 31, 2013
black nasty
If you can not, leave it. Just like chipping, etc.

Very simple.

Keep wild places wild, that is why we have, say national parks, etc.
Same goes for climbing. Keep wild climbs wild.

I will not bash CW, but whatever, a mistake was made.
He said sorry, and would repair it to the original state if the FA wanted.

That's that. And no I am not his friend. Now let's go climb, it's summer!
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,175 points
Aug 1, 2013
Wild? Ddue TRed it repeatedly and placed bolts and pins on rappel. What is wild about that? chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
Joined Sep 14, 2011
22 points
Aug 1, 2013
Cold day at Smug's
David Sahalie wrote:
Wild? Ddue TRed it repeatedly and placed bolts and pins on rappel. What is wild about that?

What's trad about that?
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
218 points
Aug 1, 2013
...
It's a fucking rock! Go have fun PLAYING on it. Making it out to be more is nonsense!

Just do your best to not fuck things up for those following in your footsteps.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Aug 1, 2013
Mashers Tower
what's the deal with this Gaylord person?

posts deleted by mods in every thread?

ban this fuck already he's got issues.
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Aug 1, 2013
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Here goes my most inflamatory post ever.

I will probably never be able to climb 5.12 trad or sport, just not that dedicated or skilled. I have respect for people who can and the pioneers like Kor etal. I also have tremendous respect for authors of books on climbing.

After reading all of these threads and comments for entertainment value...... the internet beat down that went on here of Chris and the ball cupping of well known climbers is absolutely pathetic.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
286 points
Aug 1, 2013
Travellin' light.
CJC wrote:
what's the deal with this Gaylord person? posts deleted by mods in every thread? ban this fuck already he's got issues.

He joined the same day BSheriden was blocked from posting. Anyone care to out this boothole so we can give him the bum rush? I'lll gladly step up and deliver.
MPoster
Joined Aug 1, 2013
5 points
Aug 1, 2013
CoR
Why are people so active about a passive device? rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Aug 1, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.
MPoster wrote:
He joined the same day BSheriden was blocked from posting. Anyone care to out this boothole so we can give him the bum rush? I'lll gladly step up and deliver.


I already started a thread on this, the mods responded and they have good reasons for not outright banning. At least this way they can keep track of one individual and delete his/her inane babble, rather than trying to rediscover it every time they sign up under a new account. Sucks, but what can you do. The best course of action is to ignore, he/she is basically just that stupid little kid who annoyed everyone in class to get a rise, because negative attention is better than nothing. Don't give them the attention, and they'll eventually stop. Hopefully ;-)
Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Joined May 23, 2009
43 points
Aug 1, 2013
Credits: Marty TwoBulls m2bulls.com  indiancountry...
great thread! 2funny<:)

Ben Beckerich wrote:
I love to climb... but oh man I can't fucking stand climbers.

wanna climb?
kirra
Joined Feb 1, 2006
724 points
Aug 1, 2013
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Burn the witch!

David Sahalie wrote:
It's better than cable


MP Forum/Asylum/DayCare

Yikes
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Aug 1, 2013
uh oh, MPoster= internet tough guy tigglebitties
Joined Dec 30, 2012
128 points


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