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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Jul 31, 2013

It's better than cable:

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2189062/retro-bolting-color>>>

www.mountainproject.com/v/archangel/108240564#a_108254896

www.dailycamera.com/recreation-columnists/ci_23762980/confes>>>


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Jul 31, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

A bunch of socially inept, unemployed guys claimed, for themselves, ownership over an activity they can't have any kind of physical control over... and decades later, everyone who participates in this activity is expected to conform to those so-called "ethics," to the point that a violation, even inadvertent, will result in national public humiliation.

lol

I love to climb... but oh man I can't fucking stand climbers.


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Jul 31, 2013
Bucky

Ben Beckerich wrote:
A bunch of socially inept, unemployed guys claimed, for themselves, ownership over an activity they can't have any kind of physical control over... and decades later, everyone who participates in this activity is expected to conform to those so-called "ethics," to the point that a violation, even inadvertent, will result in national public humiliation. lol I love to climb... but oh man I can't fucking stand climbers.


Amen Ben. Most of the whining comes from people on SuperTaco. That's why I always ignored the Taco when I lived in CA because even though it was the "local" forum for my climbing areas, I couldn't stand the drivel that went on there. The funny thing is that most of the dudes screaming the loudest cannot even climb the routes they are whining about. Its almost as if bitching is its own activity.


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By Sorden
From inside the Bubble, Colorado
Jul 31, 2013
~Here to party~

Ben Beckerich wrote:
a violation, even inadvertent


Inadvertent? He didn't even attempt to contact the FA (according to the FA.)

If this generation isn't shamed into adherence to old ethics, what do you think the next generation is going to shamelessly do to existing routes?

Lucky for them, everyone who gives a shit now will be gone. The old ethics will be cast aside and rewritten by the new masters of the universe, and so it goes...


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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Jul 31, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.



You forgot a link: mountainproject.com/v/archangel/108266778


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By Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2013

funny no one caught onto the bolt added then removed and patched on englishmans home.


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By J Q
Jul 31, 2013
Me again!

I love how some people get their ethics jammed in their crack and then feel the need to pontificate about their meaningless their smelling problems. No one outside a turd sniffer cares about your balled up panties, and a very few climbers actually sniff turds.


For you I say don't worry. If there is any water, access, or pursuit of happiness left in ten years, I am sure your ego will remain the size and description of your balls: huge, inflamed, and red from all the posturing and comparing.

Question: If I do a line first wearing a wig and bat-wings, while hanging a ten pound bowling ball off of my ass, can I claim a first ascent and force others to the same meaningless ethic?

Now can the rest of use not concerned with ball size get on with the business of rock climbing?


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Jul 31, 2013

The amazing thing is that the FA toproped it to hell, placed bolts and pitons on rappel creating artificial run outs and then sent the 12c with preplaced gear.

Then it sat for 25 years.

.. and this is considered a fine and legitimate style by trads, Sooo much better than horrid sport climbing.


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By Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2013

true story, pretty lame overall, just some washed up 80's climber who wants his claim to fame for some mediocre half assed route where gays go to sun bath. every other route is bolted on that choss pile why not bolt that?


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Jul 31, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

Sorden wrote:
Inadvertent? He didn't even attempt to contact the FA (according to the FA.) If this generation isn't shamed into adherence to old ethics, what do you think the next generation is going to shamelessly do to existing routes? Lucky for them, everyone who gives a shit now will be gone. The old ethics will be cast aside and rewritten by the new masters of the universe, and so it goes...


Shamed?

If I didn't have a life, I'd go re-bolt it myself.


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By Sorden
From inside the Bubble, Colorado
Jul 31, 2013
~Here to party~

And thus you've identified your generation. Thanks for making my point.


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By Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2013

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By Gaylord.Primrose
From boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2013

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By David Barbour
From Longmont, CO
Jul 31, 2013

It takes more of an ego to retro-fit a route because you want to climb it than to leave it for those who are capable of climbing it in its historical condition. There are more sport climbs in the Midwest than anyone could climb in a lifetime. Why bolt this one?

Obviously there are exceptions, but the FA ethic serves a purpose other than to stroke the FA-ers ego. It preserves climbs of all types for climbers of all types.


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By Cor
Jul 31, 2013
black nasty

If you can not, leave it. Just like chipping, etc.

Very simple.

Keep wild places wild, that is why we have, say national parks, etc.
Same goes for climbing. Keep wild climbs wild.

I will not bash CW, but whatever, a mistake was made.
He said sorry, and would repair it to the original state if the FA wanted.

That's that. And no I am not his friend. Now let's go climb, it's summer!


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Aug 1, 2013

Wild? Ddue TRed it repeatedly and placed bolts and pins on rappel. What is wild about that?


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Aug 1, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

David Sahalie wrote:
Wild? Ddue TRed it repeatedly and placed bolts and pins on rappel. What is wild about that?

What's trad about that?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Aug 1, 2013
...

It's a fucking rock! Go have fun PLAYING on it. Making it out to be more is nonsense!

Just do your best to not fuck things up for those following in your footsteps.


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By CJC
Aug 1, 2013

what's the deal with this Gaylord person?

posts deleted by mods in every thread?

ban this fuck already he's got issues.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Aug 1, 2013
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

Here goes my most inflamatory post ever.

I will probably never be able to climb 5.12 trad or sport, just not that dedicated or skilled. I have respect for people who can and the pioneers like Kor etal. I also have tremendous respect for authors of books on climbing.

After reading all of these threads and comments for entertainment value...... the internet beat down that went on here of Chris and the ball cupping of well known climbers is absolutely pathetic.


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By MPoster
Aug 1, 2013
Travellin' light.

CJC wrote:
what's the deal with this Gaylord person? posts deleted by mods in every thread? ban this fuck already he's got issues.

He joined the same day BSheriden was blocked from posting. Anyone care to out this boothole so we can give him the bum rush? I'lll gladly step up and deliver.


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By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Aug 1, 2013
CoR

Why are people so active about a passive device?


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By Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Aug 1, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.

MPoster wrote:
He joined the same day BSheriden was blocked from posting. Anyone care to out this boothole so we can give him the bum rush? I'lll gladly step up and deliver.


I already started a thread on this, the mods responded and they have good reasons for not outright banning. At least this way they can keep track of one individual and delete his/her inane babble, rather than trying to rediscover it every time they sign up under a new account. Sucks, but what can you do. The best course of action is to ignore, he/she is basically just that stupid little kid who annoyed everyone in class to get a rise, because negative attention is better than nothing. Don't give them the attention, and they'll eventually stop. Hopefully ;-)


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By kirra
Aug 1, 2013

great thread! 2funny<:)

Ben Beckerich wrote:
I love to climb... but oh man I can't fucking stand climbers.

wanna climb?


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By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
Aug 1, 2013
Tom-onator

Burn the witch!

David Sahalie wrote:
It's better than cable


MP Forum/Asylum/DayCare

Yikes


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By g.miller
Aug 1, 2013

uh oh, MPoster= internet tough guy


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