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Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

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3rd Generation Wall  
Aurora Slab 
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Diamond, The 
Fairangel Gap and Valley  
Fairangel walls 
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Zulu Wall 

Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing 

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Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008
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Looking back down Archangel Valley early in the se...


Very unique, "Lord of the Rings" like. Weather is random and can be very different from the weather reports.

Two rockclimbing guides cover the climbing in Hatcher Pass, both are by Kelsey Gray. They are "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" and is available in two volumes.

A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at www.akclimber.com

Getting There 

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.

52 Total Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing:
Chickenhead   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   The Monolith
The Slot   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Monolith
Toto   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches   The Diamond
Local Motion   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 150'   The Monolith
Physical Attraction   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Zulu Wall
Zigzag   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Monolith
Orangutan Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   The Monolith
Freedom Roof    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 90'   The Monolith
Voodoo Child   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Zulu Wall
Zulu Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Zulu Wall
African Dreams    5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
Epidemic    5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
Blue Berry Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 50'   Green Gully
The Brown Spot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 120'   Green Gully
3rd Generation   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   3rd Generation Wall
Browse More Classics in Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

Featured Route For Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing
Adrienne Kentner on Zulu Warrior 5.10

Zulu Warrior 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : Zulu Wall
Start at the base of a flake and follow it up to the slab and the first bolt. Follow the right-hand line of bolts from there to the top. Don't be intimidated by the bulge at the end, the route goes just fine either direct, to the left, or to the right. Remember to stem....[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

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